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What are those weird rocks I found on the beach?

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What’s that rock amidst those shells? It looks like petrified sand.

Editor’s note: This story was first published in the August 2025 issue of the Ocracoke Observer.

Text and photos by Connie Leinbach

Ocracoke beach shelling is different from elsewhere along the East Coast.

When you walk along the beach you will see myriad bivalves and gastropods, sometimes in large clusters of whole shells and pieces called “shell hash.”

Among the shell detritus, you might see a hunk of coal (most likely from a sunken ship in the Graveyard of the Atlantic), or what looks like a river or landscaping stone, or what look like a hunk of petrified sand.

Someone once suggested that “petrified sand” was made from lightning striking the sand and melting it together.

Those items are called fulgurites, but the “petrified sand” specimens that can be found on the Ocracoke beach are not fulgurites.

Dr. Stanley Riggs explains the different ‘petrified sand’ rocks that can be found on the beach. This one is a mud stone.

They are locally called “marl” and are pieces of prehistory, according to coastal geologist Stanley Riggs, East Carolina Distinguished Research professor emeritus and author of “The Battle for the North Carolina Coast.”

Riggs visited Ocracoke with the Coastal Land Trust in the spring and graciously took time to answer questions about certain beach finds.

Some of them – the smooth ones — are “mud stones” and were created over thousands of years under pressure in the ocean.

“They probably go back 75,000 to 100,000 years,” he said while examining several specimens.

These “rocks” broke off from the “fine mud” off the edges of the capes.

If you look at the Carolina coast, you have several capes, he said, which differ from shorelines in the north.

This coquina shows where small sea creatures bored into the sand covering it.

“Every one of these capes has this kind of rock,” he said. “The reason these capes stick out in the ocean is that most of them have something underneath them and that something is this rock.”

These smoother specimens are probably calcareous mud.

In other specimens that look like coarse sand, he noted the presence of little holes made by clams boring into them and the imprints of sponges that lived on the top, which, over the many years, became bound together.

 These were not in the mud flats.

“These are coquinas,” he said, which differs from coquina clams one sees drilling down into the surf, and which the dictionary says is “a soft, whitish limestone formed of broken shells and corals cemented together.”

A crab burrow.

If you went out into the surf beyond the breakers and drill down, you’d get multiple layers of sand and muddy sand all packed together for tens if not hundreds of thousands of years, he said.

Gretchen Miller, a senior professor of geology at Wake Tech Community College, Raleigh, also looked at the specimens while visiting Ocracoke in the spring.

Upon examining the coquinas, she noted that the ocean, which is mostly salt, contains myriad other minerals and chemicals.

“So, the critters take these chemicals out of the water to make their hard parts,” she said.

And when they die those hard parts fall to the ocean floor and become sediment, which then, with the help of minerals acting as glue, cement it together turning it into rock.

Riggs solved the mystery of a black, cylindrical piece this reporter found on the beach and which she thought might have been a fulgurite.

“This is a crab burrow that was cemented in the tide zone,” he said, noting that it got its black appearance by having been in a muddy, peat environment that was without oxygen, or an “inoxide” environment.

Black shells, many of which are oyster shells, are plentiful on Ocracoke’s beach, and Riggs said these are fossil shells.

“Those oyster shells will be anywhere from 200 to 1,000 years old,” he said. “They lived on the back side of the barrier, in the marsh. They’re intertidal. The island came over the top of them and washed them into the ocean.”

This page from Stanley Riggs’ book shows the capes of North Carolina from which sand rocks break off and wash up on the beach.
These are specimens of mud stones found on the Ocracoke Beach.

Minimal snow on Ocracoke on Saturday; storm impacts expected to intensify overnight

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South Point Road. Photo: P. Vankevich/Ocracoke Observer

By Joy Crist and Connie Leinbach

As a major winter storm continues to take shape across eastern North Carolina Saturday evening (Jan. 31), National Weather Service office in Newport/Morehead City expects impacts to intensify overnight into Sunday morning on Ocracoke Island.

As of Saturday evening, Despite flurries all day, Ocracoke has received minimal snowfall, with little accumulation reported so far.

The National Weather Service said Gianna, as they have named it, may bring heavier snow overnight and has the potential to become historic, with snowfall rates overnight that may exceed 1 to 2 inches per hour in heavier bands.

“This is expected to be a historic storm, with the potential for the first 12″+ snowfall event in eastern NC since December 1989 or March 1980,” the NWS said in an email.

Ferry service to Ocracoke has been shut down and Hyde County officials have closed the Ocracoke Convenience Site until further notice.

After the last ferry departed Ocracoke for Hatteras this morning, NCDOT closed NC12 on Ocracoke Island between the ferry terminal and the NPS Pony Pens.

“We will monitor conditions on the highway and reopen it as soon as it is safe to do so after the storm passes,” read the post on the NC12 Facebook page.

NCDOT closed NC12 between the Marc Basnight Bridge and Rodanthe at 6 p.m. due to deteriorating conditions and poor visibility.

Blowing and drifting snow, combined with strong winds, is expected to significantly reduce visibility and make travel hazardous to potentially impossible at times. Impacts from snow, wind and cold may linger into much of next week.

Coastal flooding remains a primary concern heading into Sunday morning.

Moderate to locally significant flooding is forecast for both oceanside and soundside areas, with the highest impacts expected around the Sunday morning high tide at roughly 7 a.m.

Forecasters said oceanside inundation of 2 to 4 feet is possible due to elevated water levels and wave runup, while soundside flooding of 2 to 4 feet above ground level may occur as well. Vulnerable sections of N.C. Highway 12, particularly south of Oregon Inlet, could see travel impacts from overwash and standing water.

Strong winds are expected to persist overnight, with gusts along the Outer Banks capable of reaching 55 to 70 mph. These winds may contribute to power outages, blowing snow and rapidly changing road conditions.

The Community Square dock. Photo: P. Vankevich/Ocracoke Observer
Downtown Ocracoke around 3:30 p.m. Saturday, Jan. 31. Photo: C. Leinbach/Ocracoke Observer

Ocracoke postponements ahead of winter storm

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Ahead of the winter storm that will hit Ocracoke on Saturday, a number of island events and services have announced closings.

Hyde County has declared a State of Emergency.

Ocracoke Alive has postponed the events scheduled for Saturday and Sunday but Monday’s community discussion will go on at this point.

The Ocracoke Health Center and Pharmacy will be closed Monday and Tuesday. See info below.

Ferries to Ocracoke will be suspended on Saturday until the storm has passed.

“In order to ensure the safety of our passengers, crews, and vessels, these will be the last departures to and from Ocracoke Island until the winter storm has passed,” the Ferry Division said on Facebook. “Other ferry routes will also likely face schedule interruptions over the course of the weekend.”

 The last departures from Swan Quarter and Cedar Island today (Jan. 30) will be at 4:30 p.m.

The last ferry from Ocracoke to Hatteras will be at midnight tonight and the last ferry from Hatteras to Ocracoke will be at 4:30 a.m. Saturday (Jan. 31).

After the ferries stop, medical service will be limited to helicopters to fly patients off island, said Captain Joe Smith of the Hyde County Sheriff’s Department. “More than likely, this option will also stop when the winds pick up,” he said. “If you or someone you know is in need of medical services please seek that service now. It could be days before we can return to normal operations.

“Please be safe on the roads the next few days until DOT can clear them. If you don’t have to travel please stay home where it’s warm.”

The Ocracoke Convenience Site might be closed, depending on the weather.

Cape Hatteras National Seashore: Ahead of an impending winter storm, all National Park Service visitor facilities at Cape Hatteras National Seashore, Fort Raleigh National Historic Site and Wright Brothers National Memorial will be closed this weekend and will remain closed through at least the morning of Feb. 2. The Oregon Inlet and Ocracoke campgrounds closed at noon today.

Park-specific operational updates will be provided on the Outer Banks Group’s severe weather webpage and social media accounts.

For current weather forecasts, visit the NWS Newport/Morehead City website.

The Observer will post more changes as needed.

Ocracoke Alive postpones weekend cultural events; communty discussions on Ocracoke’s future to begin Monday

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Ocracoke is one of the most remote places in North Carolina. A view of Ocracoke’s harbor with Portsmouth Island in the distance beyond. Photo: C. Leinbach

Editor’s note: Due to the approaching winter storm, Ocracoke Alive has postponed the weekend activities to future dates TBD. This includes the soap workshop and baking class on Saturday and games at the library on Sunday. We will update if more events are canceled due to the storm.

Ocracoke Alive on Monday, Feb. 2, will host the first of eight discussion-based, creative workshops about the island’s long-term future.

David Tweedie and Hannah Aronson, a master of city planning student at Massachusetts Institute of Technology, will facilitate the sessions that will run from 6 to 7:30 p.m. Mondays, Feb. 2, 9, 16, 23, March 2, 9, 17 and 23, in the Deepwater Theater.

“This is not a technical planning meeting or commitment to any project, but a space to think boldly, share ideas and explore unlimited possibilities for Ocracoke’s future through collaborative community visioning,” Tweedie said.

As a child, Hannah used to visit Ocracoke with her parents Margaret Mackinnon and Bob Baldwin, who still visit every summer.

With experience in Massachusetts, Virginia, Hawai’i, Japan, New Zealand and Micronesia, Hannah is researching how coastal communities envision and plan for climate change. Hannah’s final thesis project will be the development of a community-driven framework for Ocracoke based on ideas shared during the series.

Her project is based on a two-step approach to planning: first, community envisioning of ideal futures (workshop series); then, grounding community visions in available resources and realities (planning framework).
Each week explores a different theme or scenario about the island’s possible futures.

The first workshop will serve as a brainstorming session to identify potential topics and themes and the last workshop will reflect and close out the series.

Hannah hopes to visit in person for the last session and share back some ideas for a community planning framework.
The workshop hopes to explore:
Different themes and scenarios about Ocracoke’s possible futures

  • Discussion of creative concepts, emerging technologies and lessons from other coastal communities in the U.S. and abroad
  • A focus on local voices and ideas, not predetermined plans

Example questions the workshops will explore:
How have other coastal communities adapted to climate change?

  • What would it mean—socially, culturally, emotionally—if the island ever faced difficult decisions about its future?

Hyde County declares State of Emergency ahead Of major winter storm; blizzard conditions expected

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From our news services

Hyde County officials have issued a state of emergency effective at 8 a.m. on Friday, Jan. 30.

Hyde County is currently under a Winter Storm Watch. This declaration comes as the National Weather Service (NWS) warns of a significant Nor’easter capable of producing dangerous blizzard conditions across the Albemarle-Pamlico Peninsula and Ocracoke Island.

For a storm to be classified as a blizzard, it must meet the following criteria for at least three consecutive hours:

  • Sustained winds or frequent gusts of 35 mphor greater.
  • Visibility of less than 1/4 mile due to falling or blowing snow.
  • Extreme snowfall rates: Snowfall of 1 to 2 inches per hour, leading to whiteout conditions and making travel impossible.

Forecasted impacts for Hyde County:

  • Snowfall: Anywhere from 10 to 16 inches of snow; totals will depend on where the heavy bands eventually land. Hyde County is currently in the zone for the heavy bands.
  • Wind: Gusts are forecasted at 55 to 65 mph for the Outer Banks and 40-50 mph for inland areas.
  • Coastal flooding: Ocracoke and coastal areas may see 2 to 4 feet of inundation above ground level, which will likely close portions of NC12.
  • Extreme cold: Wind chills will drop dangerously low Saturday night through Monday.
  • Long-lasting impacts: Impacts may last into the majority of next week.
  • Closures: Decisions regarding the closure of county offices and solid waste sites will be made as the storm approaches. Check your local TV news, our website, or social media outlets for updates.

Critical safety & medical alerts:

  • EMS impacts: Residents are advised that EMS response times will be significantly impacted by hazardous travel conditions. If roads become impassable due to deep snow or soundside flooding, or white-out conditions restrict visibility, emergency vehicles may be unable to reach you immediately.
  • Medical preparedness: Anyone with medical issues or special needs should have enough supplies and medications on hand to last for up to one week.
  • Backup power: If you rely on medical equipment that requires electricity, you must have a backup power source ready, as isolated power outages are possible due to high winds.
  • Be prepared: Residents are urged to complete all necessary preparations by Friday evening.

Remember: Bridges freeze before roads do. Please stay off the roads once conditions deteriorate to allow crews to work. Check on your neighbors and ensure your pets are brought indoors.

Hyde County Emergency Management will continue to monitor the forecast and issue updates as required.

Visit ReadyNC.govfor more information on winter weather safety and preparation. For real-time travel information, visit DriveNC.gov or follow NCDOT on social media

For the latest NWS Morehead City Weather Advisory Click Here.

National Weather Service issues video on snowstorm preparation

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The National Weather Service has issued a Winter Storm Watch for eastern North Carolina this weekend with the potential for significant accumulating snow.

Forecasters say that localized blizzard conditions are possible along the coast if the storm strengthens and the higher-end snowfall projections occur.

The storm will start on Saturday as rain and will shift to snow as the temperatures drop. The highest amount of snowfall is expected to be from Saturday night into Sunday morning.

Strong winds with gusts up to 60 mph are expected along the Outer Banks which will likely lead to moderate to locally significant coastal flooding impacts both oceanside and soundside. Dangerous marine conditions expected across the coastal waters and sounds.

Travelers should expect some suspensions of ferry services.

Local government officials are urging the public to avoid travel when possible and to be prepared for an extended period of travel issues due to the cold temperatures forecast to remain in place into next week. An emergency travel kit list is posted below and important for those who may become stranded on the road.

The weather service’s wind chill chart shows single-digit or teen wind chills possible at times across the region from Saturday through Tuesday, depending on location.

The NWS has issued a new tool—a video, below–to inform the public to help all prepare for the pending storm. To view, click Watch on YouTube.

NWS video on pending winter storm.

Another weekend, another winter storm weather watch

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From our news services

As of Wednesday morning (Jan. 28), the National Weather Service continues to track a system that could develop into a winter storm affecting the Outer Banks this weekend.

While specific snow accumulations remain uncertain, forecast models show increasing agreement that this storm system will bring at least moderate and possibly major impacts to eastern North Carolina starting on Saturday. The exact track, intensity and resulting snow totals are still being determined.

Moderate impacts could include high winds, large waves, overwash and several inches of snow. This will bring difficult travel conditions and possible suspensions of the ferry service.

Major impacts could mean significant snow accumulations requiring extensive removal efforts, dangerous or impassable roads, and potential power outages.

The National Weather Service will provide updates as meteorologists gather more data and the forecast becomes clearer.

Researchers postpone their trip to Ocracoke this weekend

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N.C. State University researchers have canceled their trip to Ocracoke this weekend (Jan. 30 to 31) because of the forecast for winter weather.

NC State University professor Dr. K.C. Busch and her team are seeking further dialogue with the Ocracoke community about NC Highway 12 and access issues and will reschedule her visit to sometime this spring.

They were here in September to discuss their findings from the study they did on north end access issues.

The National Weather Service out of Morehead City warns that the Outer Banks will see some impacts from this second weekend storm, though more details will be available toward the end of the week.

Ocracoke events Jan. 26 to Feb. 1–Updated

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Ocracoke Alive winter activities begin. To see the full schedule, click here.

Aerial view of South Point at sunset. Photo by Matt Janson

Monday, Jan. 26
Ocracoke Alive: Spanish/English Coffee hour, 8:15 to 9:15 am. Ocracoke Library. Then every Monday through March 23

Tuesday, Jan. 27
Ocracoke School basketball at home vs. Columbia: Varsity girls at 4 pm; varsity boys at 5:30 pm.

Ocracoke Alive: Mediterranean Cooking with Helios: 6 pm. To RSVP, click here.

Wednesday, Jan. 28
Ocracoke Alive: Marlin Spike Seamanship: a few useful knots plus a Turk’s head bracelet with Captain Rob Temple. 1 to 3 pm. Deepwater Theater.

Ocracoke School basketball: Middle School girls and boys at Mattamuskeet.

Thursday, Jan. 29
Ocracoke Alive: 9:30 to 10:30am. Ukulele/Guitar with Lou Castro. Deepwater Theater.

Ocracoke School basketball: Varsity girls and boys travel to Beargrass. The girls game begins at 4:30; boys will play around 5:45. (Moved up from Friday due to possible bad weather.)

Ocracoke Alive Art with Kitty Mitchell: Learning to See Abstractly + proportional skills. 6 to 8 pm. Deepwater Theater.

Friday, Jan. 30
Researchers and professors K.C. Busch and Laura Moore will be guests on “What’s Happening on Ocracoke” to discuss the dialogue with the Ocracoke community about NC Highway 12 and access issues.11:30 am. 90.1 FM on the island and wovv.org

UNC-Chapel Hill researchers interview islanders on how different land management scenarios might affect the landscape of the island. 1 to 3 pm. To join, click here.
Postponed to a date TBD.

Ocracoke Alive: A visit with homing pigeons with Steve and Jeanne Brook. 11 am to noon, Ocracoke Library outside.

Ocracoke Alive: Latino Dance class with Arturo. 6 to 7:15 pm. Ocracoke Community Center.

Saturday, Jan. 31
UNC-Chapel Hill researchers interview islanders on how different land management scenarios might affect the landscape of the island. 10 am to noon. To join, click here. Postponed to a date TBD.

Ocracoke Alive: Melt and pour soap workshop with Mary Ruef. 1 to 3 pm. Deepwater Theater. Postponed to a date TBD.

Ocracoke Alive: Cooking/baking: Swedish saffron almond buns with Matt Janson. 3 to 5 pm. Ocracoke United Methodist Church rec hall. Postponed to a date TBD.

Sunday, Feb. 1
Church services:
Ocracoke United Methodist Church, 11 am

Ocracoke Life Saving Church, 11 am

Stella Maris Chapel: Sunday Mass time at 4:30 p.m. unless otherwise noted. Go to Masstimes.org and type in the zip code 27960 but refresh your browser for it to work properly.

Ocracoke Alive: Games/Puzzles for adults and young adults, 3 to 5 pm. Ocracoke Library. Postponed to a date TBD.

Elders reminisce about Ocracoke back in the day

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Bobby Garrish and Lydia Freda Spencer reminisce about their childhood days on Ocracoke.

Editor’s note: This story was first published in the October print issue of the Observer.

Text and photos by Connie Leinbach

After about 30 years, Ocracoke cousins Lydia Freda Spencer and Bobby Garrish returned to the house in which they spent many youthful days.

Lydia, 92, (pronounced “Lida”) and Bobby, 87, were both born in their first cousin Alton Ballance’s house across from the old post office, which is now Captain’s Cargo.

Among the oldest island residents, Lydia, nee Williams, was born in 1933 and Bobby in 1939.

“We were born in the same room and the same bed,” Bobby said.

That was back when maternity care was done by island midwives.

Back in the early fall, the two reminisced on Alton’s porch, along with Lydia’s daughter, Elaine Spencer, and Alton’s brother, Kenny, about their days as youngsters on Ocracoke.

This was their grandmother Brittina Williams’s house; and her daughters, Vera (Alton’s mother), Nina Claude (Lydia’s mother) and Maude Thomas (Bobby’s mother) moved into Brittina’s house.

Alton Ballance displays the antique syrup bottle he found in one of his walls.

Along with Alton’s father, Lawrence and other island men who had gone up north to work in shipyards and on dredges, Lydia’s father, Milon Daniel Williams, went to Philadelphia to work.

Alton said that from the northeast, they would drive back to Ocracoke, spend a day or two at home, then drive back.

Bobby’s father, Uriah, was an island mullet fisherman.

“They was hardly ever home,” Lydia, in her island brogue, said about the menfolk. “So, my momma and his momma, we all lived here in Ma Brittie’s house.”

The four women and their six children lived in six rooms, including three bedrooms.

Bobby said four kids slept on the bed and two on the floor.

“The bathroom was outside,” Bobby said, and by that he meant the outhouse.

An old wooden cistern built by Uncle Maurice Ballance collected rainwater for drinking, “and we had a pump that pumped it into the house,” said Alton.

Ma Brittie.

The house was a village hub.

“Everybody gathered on this porch when we were growing up,” added Kenny.

“This was Times Square,” Alton said.

The mail boat would arrive in the afternoon on the dock, he said, “and everyone would gather here and wait for the mail to call over.” 

“She was the ‘Ruler of the Ridge,’” Alton said about his grandmother. “She loved sitting here on the porch. None of the buildings across the street now were there. “You could sit on this porch and it was all open beach.”

Although Irvin Garrish Highway is only a few yards from the house tucked behind some shrubbery, when Lydia and Bobby were kids, the road was a sandy path.

There were very few cars and there was no harbor then. Only a “gut,” as it was called, and a beach.

The ocean wasn’t as far away from the center of town as it is now.

There were very few outside lights and it was very dark at night.

“Sometimes you might run into a horse when you were out walking,” said Lydia with a laugh.

The house right beside Alton, now owned by Tom and Carol Pahl, was built by Leonard Bryant for Bobby’s parents, Uriah and Maude Thomas Garrish.

While building it, the children (with the adults) slept in there, and because there were yet no doors or windows, Bryant would place a piece of plywood in the doorway.

“He’d board us all up inside there at night and then let us out in the morning,” Lydia said with a smile.

Alton showed his cousins some artifacts he found inside the walls of his house while he was renovating it after Hurricane Dorian flooded it in September 2019.

One small, greenish bottle was embossed with “Mrs. Winslow’s Soothing Syrup.”

“This was a potion they gave babies 100 years ago to calm them when they were teething or crying,” Alton said.

The baby shoe Alton found inside his wall.

It was called a “baby killer” because it contained morphine, which was unregulated. Giving more of the syrup to babies who didn’t settle was sometimes fatal.

Alton also found a single baby shoe and a piece of a letter from his grandfather to Brittina, in about 1919, asking about the kids.

“In May of 2020 I was working on these walls and found them,” he said.

Alton’s mother, Vera, had issues, he said, “with all these kids running around stealing her perfume and jewelry.

“At one time, she was going with a Navy guy,” Lydia said. “He gave her a pack of chewing gum and she had it on her bureau. And between me and Maude Ellen and Chloe, we got into it and chewed it all. She didn’t like that one bit.”

“She was glad to see them go next door,” Alton said about the kids.

Alton and Kenny Ballance talk about growing up on Ocracoke.
Cousins Bobby Garrish and Lydia Freda Spencer.