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Gale force winds expected to further hamper Hatteras ferry runs to Ocracoke

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From the NWS at 4 p.m. April 17, 2022. Green area shows coastal flood advisory and purple shows high surf advisory.

By Connie Leinbach

Gale force winds today and into Monday until 8 p.m. are expected to continue suspending ferry operations between Hatteras and Ocracoke.

A tweet on @NCFerryHatteras Twitter said ferry runs were suspended this morning (April 17) around 10 a.m. and another tweet a few hours later that the suspension was continuing. Sunday’s action followed a several-hour suspension of service on Saturday when a dredge, a tug and a ferry grounded on shoals in the inlet.

“We will resume operations as soon as we are able to make safe passage,” the two tweets said.

Officials do not know when they will resume since the winds are expected to get worse tomorrow, a Hatteras ferry worker reached on the phone said Sunday afternoon. “Shoaling from the winds also is a part of the equation, he said, adding that the parking lot is pretty well cleared out.

Travelers can get the latest information by calling the Hatteras Ferry terminal, 252-996-6000, or following Twitter.

The National Weather Service reports on its website that Ocracoke and Hatteras can expect winds of 25 to 35 knots through 8 p.m. Monday with gusts up to 40 knots in the Pamlico Sound, which is what the ferries use to get to Ocracoke from Hatteras, Swan Quarter and Cedar Island.

To pile on, Monday is expected to bring thunderstorms and rain with up to one to two inches possible with a high of 71 degrees.

Unlike Hatteras, a check with the Swan Quarter office said those ferries are running. 

The ferry reservation website on Sunday afternoon showed that although the 10 a.m. departure from Swan Quarter on Monday is sold out, there were a few spaces available for the later ferries at 1 and 4:30 p.m., and all runs on Tuesday have spaces available.

Departures on Monday to Cedar Island also have some spaces available.

The Hatteras ferry suspension has wreaked havoc with vacationers on Ocracoke on a busy Easter weekend.

Maddie Whitehead, a vacation specialist with Ocracoke Island Realty, said she has been fielding calls today from renters.

“We’ve gotten very many calls and they’re not taking it well,” she said.

Customers expect her to know when the Hatteras ferry will resume, but that’s up to Mother Nature.

She said some renters have been able to get extensions on their rental if the house is open, and others are having to get hotel rooms on the island.

A spot check with two island hoteliers show that they have been getting renters who can’t get off the island.

Both Blackbeard’s Lodge and the Pony Island Motel have rooms available.  A spokeswoman at Blackbeard’s said they are out of pet friendly rooms, but a spokeswoman at Pony Island said their rooms are pet-friendly with additional fees.

Photo by P. Vankevich

John Simpson: A keeper of the island carving tradition

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Ocracoke Island decoy carver and artist John Simpson will be the featured carver at the April 23 Waterfowl Festival at the Berkley Barn. Photo: C. Leinbach

By Peter Vankevich

Even though he says his first attempt at decoy carving yielded “the ugliest bird you ever saw,” the folk-art form grabbed John Simpson back in 1975.

Simpson, who is the featured carver at this year’s Ocracoke Waterfowl Festival from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Saturday, April 23, at the Berkley Barn, is also the president of the Ocracoke Island Decoy Carvers Guild, which he helped co-found in 2018.

This will be the fourth festival, which draws carvers and aficionados from all over the eastern seaboard.

In addition to organizing the event, Simpson will have a booth to show his carvings, many of which these days are shore birds.

But duck decoys are the main heritage of island carvers and that’s where Simpson started as a teenager back in 1975.

“I always enjoyed piddling with wood and my interest in carving took off by hanging out as a young person at Corky’s Store on Down Creek Road,” he said. “Wilbur Gaskill would sit on the steps carving little birds and sold them to visitors as novelty items for $3. He had me sit next to him and showed me how to carve.”

That first attempt at carving was “out of cork from an old coastguard life jacket and it was the ugliest bird you ever saw,” he said. “It was a scaup and I chose it because it was the easiest to paint with just white, gray and black colors.”

But he comes from a family of decoy carvers, so he couldn’t give up.

John Simpson holding his Northern Pintail carving . Photo: P. Vankevich

He is related on his mother Patsy Gaskins Simpson’s side to one of Ocracoke’s carving legends, Gary Bragg (1881-1954).

Since that self-described inauspicious beginning, Simpson has carved hundreds of waterfowl and shorebirds.

Simpson also paints two-dimensional works and even though he has honed that skill, he says painting his carvings is his toughest challenge.

“I know it might seem funny, but I have to be in just the right mood to do the painting,” he said.

A highlight of the Waterfowl Festival is to celebrate a featured carver who gets to choose the festival’s featured species, and Simpson chose the Northern Pintail.

Previous featured carvers, David O’Neal, Dan Robinson and Nathan Spencer, all attribute their love of the art and their carving skills to mentors, family members and neighbors.

Robinson, who was the chief at the Ocracoke Coast Guard station, took him under his wing, so to speak, teaching his carving techniques.

Simpson’s early carvings might not have been as bad as he describes.

At least one of them was an inspiration for last year’s featured carver, Nathan Spencer.

Some years ago, Nathan and his wife Janet cleaned out a shed for his cousin Patsy, Simpson’s mother. He came across one of Simpson’s carvings of a bird in flight that he made when he was very young.

“I brought it home and studied it and I thought, ‘I can do that,’” Spencer said.

It is not only carving, but John has a love of the history of decoys and has built a personal collection of carvings by visiting many waterfowl festivals over the years.

“My first decoy festival goes back to 1975 in Virginia Beach,” he said. He immediately took to the fellowship of carvers, noting how helpful everyone was by sharing carving techniques.

Two of the most famous master carvers in North America are the Ward brothers, Lem (1896-1984) and Steve (1896-1976), who lived in Crisfield, Maryland, on the Eastern Shore.

Simpson fondly recalls meeting Steve at a decoy festival in Salisbury, Maryland, in 1975, who even at that young age, encouraged Simpson to become a carver.

Waterfowl decoys are now considered Americana folk art and some carvings have skyrocketed in price rising to the six and even seven figures.

Simpson’s island roots go way back.

His great grandfather, Joseph Merritt Burrus, was the second to last light keeper for the Ocracoke lighthouse and the last one to serve under the U.S. Lighthouse Service from 1929-1947.

Recently, thanks to some genealogical sleuthing by Philip Howard, Simpson discovered that he is an eleventh-generation descendant of William Howard, the alleged quartermaster for Blackbeard.

Simpson graduated from Ocracoke School in 1978, in a class of seven. The following year, he took a job with the U.S. Postal Service in Elizabeth City, which led him to Washington state in the mid-1980s.

Upon leaving the postal service in 2013, he returned to Ocracoke and soon thereafter started a music show on WOVV, Ocracoke’s community radio station, that he continues today, now called “Classic Cuts and Such with John in the Studio,” broadcast from 6 to 8 p.m. Saturdays and rebroadcast Tuesdays from 2 to 4 p.m.

Simpson also has a thriving island fig preserve business with Trudy Austin. So, it’s not unusual at island events which include vendors, to see John with a large table covered with his artwork, carvings, fig trees and fig preserves.

The Ocracoke Island Decoy Carvers Guild’s mission is to pass on the fine art of bird carving to others and it holds monthly meetings to which all are invited to attend.

Birds of Ocracoke: The Northern Pintail

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Northward, ever northward, clearly indicated on the distant sky, points the long slim figure of the pintail, in the vanguard of the spring migration, wending its way toward remote and still frozen shores.
–Arthur Cleveland Bent

Northern Pintails. Photo by Jeff Beane

To read more profiles on the Birds of Ocracoke, click here

By Peter Vankevich

If one could use the word elegant to describe a waterfowl, then the Northern Pintail would be one of the first to come to mind.

These are slender ducks with narrow wings and long thin tail feathers for which they are named.

Males, or drakes, have a rich brown head, blackish-gray back, black rump and tail, white breast and are most easily identified by a prominent white stripe on the neck.

With poster-level good looks, the drake is the featured duck of the 2022 Ocracoke Wildlife Festival from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Saturday, April 23, at the Berkley Barn.

One of the most numerous wintering ducks in eastern North Carolina, the Northern Pintail (Anas acuta) can be found in both brackish and freshwater ponds and impoundments and open waters of the sounds.

Wildlife refuges such as Pea Island, Mattamuskeet and Alligator River are good locations to see them, sometimes in large feeding flocks.

Arriving in October to spend the winter, they will depart by March and are one of the earliest nesting ducks.

Northern Pintails in flight. Photo by Peter Vankevich

In North America, they have an extensive nesting range from Labrador west to Alaska and are especially prevalent in the Great Plains. Circumpolar in distribution, they can be found in northern Europe and Asia and are second in numbers worldwide to the ubiquitous Mallard.

As with many bird species, in contrast to colorful males, females are often drab in appearance in order to conceal themselves when nesting. Such is the case with the pintail. The hen has a mottled brown-and-black body, tan head and neck and a dark gray bill. Males do not help with incubation.

The hens build nests on the ground, often far from water, laying 6 to 12 greenish-buff eggs. For the most part, nesting takes place in late April and early May, and it takes up to 30 days for the birds to lay and incubate their eggs. All ducklings hatch on the same day. Hatchlings are precocial, i.e., they are born with open eyes, have a well-developed down cover, and can leave the nest within a day or two after hatching — then following the mother hen to water fledging six to eight weeks later.

Pintails are dabbling ducks – not divers, submerging only their head and neck when foraging. Their sustenance is mostly grains such as wild rice and subaquatic vegetation in fall and winter, and lots of invertebrates during the breeding season.

Males make a series of buzzy whistle sounds and females have a quack similar to a Mallard.

The Ocracoke Island Christmas Bird Count, held annually since 1981, normally reports pintail numbers in the low hundreds. The highest number was in 2020 with 5,000 individuals. Most of these ducks were observed in the sound.

The Mattamuskeet National Wildlife Refuge is a major wintering grounds for the pintail. In 2017, the Mattamuskeet count reported 113,521 individuals and in 2019 it tallied the highest number of pintails for all of the Christmas Bird Counts with 19,559.

Best time to see: Early fall into early March.

Where: Can flock in large numbers in the sound. Also, in small ponds on the island; less likely in the ocean. On the Outer Banks, Pea Island Wildlife Refuge is a better location to see them. Other regional hot spots for close views are the Alligator River National Wildlife Refuge on the Albemarle Peninsula and the Mattamuskeet/Pungo lake areas on the mainland.

Listen: The Macaulay Library at the Cornell Lab of Ornithology has a variety of recordings. To listen to a variety of calls, click here

Birds of the Outer Banks

Pintail Duckling looking pleasant, published in the Condor, 1909

Waterfowl crossbreed more often than any other family of birds. According to Ducks Unlimited, more than 400 hybrid combinations among waterfowl species have been documented. In North America, one of the most common wild hybrids results from mallard/pintail interbreeding.

Although a 2013 North American population estimate of 3.3 million pintails may sound like a lot, it is a significant decline from an estimated 6 million birds in the early 1970s. There is some good news, as the population has stabilized and appears to be slowly increasing thanks to a host of their supporters.

Increasing the pintail population is the goal of conservation measures spearheaded by the U..S. Fish and Wildlife Service, the Canadian Wildlife Service and other federal, state, and provincial conservation agencies and private organizations such as Ducks Unlimited and California Waterfowl Association.

These groups have their work cut out for them.

Habitat restoration, especially of wetlands  and enhancement of agricultural lands like the promotion of fall-seeded crops (winter wheat, fall rye), as well as prudent harvest management especially in the Midwest Prairie Pothole Region and in wintering regions of California, the Gulf Coast, and Mexico are reasons for the increase in numbers.

However, unpredictable habitat conditions or severe weather events, especially for early nesters like pintails can mean a substantial annual variation in the number of ducklings that successfully fledge.  

Nest site selection is another challenge. Many bird species are known to return to the place where they nested the previous year, a practice known as philopatry, but pintails are different in this regard. Leaving their wintering grounds, they seek out breeding locations that appear to have favorable spring wetland conditions. When the Prairie Pothole Region of the Midwest, their most important area of their extensive nesting range, is relatively dry in the spring, these ducks will head further north to the boreal wetlands of Canada and Alaska. Research has shown that the nesting success in these years is much lower.

Another challenge is that pintails are not especially particular in selecting a nesting site, sometimes choosing crop fields, which may be tilled over by spring cultivation that typically occurs during May and early June before the ducklings hatch.

I don’t normally do a plug for conservation organizations, though I often refer to their good work in these Birds of Ocracoke features.

This time I will. Ducks Unlimited has been instrumental improving habitat, especially nesting areas for waterfowl since 1937.  They have helped conserve about 15 million acres of waterfowl habitat in North America. The nonprofit organization partners with a wide range of corporations, governments, other non-governmental organizations, landowners, and private citizens to restore and manage areas that have been degraded and to prevent further degradation of existing wetlands. Additionally, many other species, aside from waterfowl, have benefited from their efforts.

To learn more about their work, check out their website at www.ducks.org.

Hatteras ferry runs resume following morning boat groundings

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Grounded barge and ferries in Hatteras Inlet, late morning, April 16. Ocracoke Observer photo

By Connie Leinbach

Ocracoke-Hatteras ferry runs resumed Saturday afternoon after having been suspended in the morning due to a grounded barge blocking the ferry channel, according to Ocracoke’s county commissioner Randal Mathews.

Mathews said a tug pulling a barge ran aground in the Sloop Channel, which is in the northwest area of the ferry channel in the Hatteras Inlet. Then a morning ferry got hung up in that area. An islander was on that ferry headed to the hospital and got off the stranded ferry via the U.S. Coast Guard, according to reports, and one of the island ambulances was stranded in Hatteras for several hours while ferry operations were suspended.

All of this happened on one of the busiest weekends for Ocracoke.

Mathews said he spoke with Jed Dixon, deputy Ferry Division director, who reported that all of the boats have been freed and ferry runs resumed at 2:30 p.m.

Also, Mathews said, the side caster dredge Merritt is now working in the slough.

“The Merritt has gone to work today,” he said. “We’ve been raising hell about this for weeks with the Dare County Waterways Commission. Steve Coulter, the commission’s chair, has called me five or six times. I’ve written letters to every senator and Congressman federal level.”

Mathews said the inlet needs a contracting company hired by the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers to do a big pipeline dredging project in the Sloop Channel.

But the process of getting dredging done is a convoluted process as several agencies have jurisdiction over different parts of the inlet and ferry channel.

Dredging anywhere requires a federal permit, Mathews said, and Sloop Channel – the area where the boats have grounded — has not been designated as a federal channel.

“The Army Corps is saying it’s not theirs,” Mathews said. That little section of the ferry channel happens to be under NCDOT jurisdiction.  “If the NCDOT would just tell the feds to go in there and dredge…”

Mathews, who attends the Dare County Waterways Commission meetings, said he asked a year ago for a pipeline dredge for the Sloop Channel, and the ACE representative said they would need three times the money for that.

In related news, the Ocracoke Waterways Commission will resume its meetings at 6:30 p.m. Wednesday, April 20, in the Ocracoke Community Center

The Swan Quarter and Cedar Island routes to and from Ocracoke Island are running as scheduled and are booked solid.

The public can stay updated on ferry operations and when they resume via Twitter at https://twitter.com/NCFerryHatteras or via the NCDOT’s travel and road conditions website, https://drivenc.gov.

Spring litter sweep in North Carolina

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Trash along Sunset Drive, Ocracoke. Photo: C. Leinbach

The N.C. Department of Transportation is seeking volunteers to help clean up trash along roads during the Adopt-A-Highway Spring Litter Sweep from April 16 to 30

Each April and September, NCDOT asks volunteers to help remove litter from roadsides.

Volunteers are provided with clean-up supplies such as trash bags, gloves and safety vests from local NCDOT county maintenance yard offices. No sign-up is required.

“Last year, NCDOT and our partner organizations picked up more than 13 million pounds of litter,” said State Roadside Engineer David Harris. “The Litter Sweep is a great opportunity to keep that momentum going and get your friends and family outdoors. Just a few hours volunteering can make a huge difference.” 

For more information about the sweep, or to contact a maintenance office for supplies, visit ncdot.gov/littersweep.  

Village Thrift is accepting non-clothing donations

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The Village Thrift is now inside the former Community Store. Photo: C. Leinbach

The Village Thrift Shop is again accepting non-clothing items for donations.

Now housed in the former Community Store in Community Square, the island “department store” is open Thursday, Friday and Saturday from noon to 4 p.m.

Gael Hawkins, one of the managers, said the store has a lot of clothing and no place to store new clothing donations, but other household items can be donated.

“We’ve moved a lot of it but more has to sell,” she said. The clothing now is mostly transitional season items, and they have to make room for summer clothing.

Hawkins stressed that no donations are to be left on the porch.

Since the shop reopened in March it has done well.

“Everyone’s been great in supporting us – locals and tourists,” Hawkins said.

Hatteras-Ocracoke ferry route to adopt spring schedules April 12 but expect departure delays

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On the Hatteras-Ocracoke ferry. Photo: C. Leinbach

HATTERAS – The N.C. Department of Transportation’s Hatteras-Ocracoke ferry route will adopt its full spring schedule on Tuesday (April 12), but motorists should expect longer-than-usual wait times due to ongoing shoaling in the Hatteras Inlet.

While the change means that the number of scheduled runs will increase from 18 to 26 daily departures from each side, critical shoaling issues in Sloop Channel outside the Ocracoke ferry terminal have limited the size of ferries that can safely operate on the route, the N.C. Ferry division said in a press release.

This has reduced the number of vehicles that can be carried on each departure and has led to longer-than-usual wait times.

“We understand and sympathize with the recent frustrations travelers are experiencing on the Hatteras route,” Ferry Division Director Harold Thomas said in a statement. “However, safety is our number one priority, and until water depths reach an adequate level in Sloop Channel, our smallest boats are the only option.”

The Ferry Division is working with the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers to have the area dredged as soon as possible. Until then, passengers on the Hatteras route may experience wait times as long as two hours or more.

Motorists can avoid lengthy wait times by considering the following options:

  • Avoid peak travel times. At the Hatteras terminal, peak congestion occurs on weekdays between 10 a.m. and 6 p.m., and at the Ocracoke terminal between 4 p.m. and midnight.
  • Consider accessing Ocracoke via the Cedar Island or Swan Quarter routes. Those routes accept reservations and vessels have larger carrying capacities.

The schedule will be as follows starting April 12:

From Hatteras: 5 a.m., 6 a.m., 7 a.m., 8 a.m., 8:30 a.m., 9 a.m., 10 a.m., 10:30 a.m., 11 a.m., 11:30 a.m., noon, 1 p.m., 1:30 p.m., 2 p.m., 2:30 p.m., 3 p.m., 4 p.m., 4:30 p.m., 5 p.m., 5:30 p.m., 6 p.m., 7:30 p.m., 8 p.m., 9 p.m., 11 p.m., midnight.

From Ocracoke: 4:30 a.m., 6:30 a.m., 7:30 a.m., 8:30 a.m., 9:30 a.m., 10 a.m., 10:30 a.m., 11:30 a.m., noon, 12:30 p.m., 1 p.m., 1:30 p.m., 2:30 p.m., 3 p.m., 3:30 p.m., 4 p.m., 4:30 p.m., 5:30 p.m., 6 p.m., 6:30 p.m., 7 p.m., 7:30 p.m., 9 p.m., 9:30 p.m., 10:30 p.m., midnight.

The Hatteras ferry route will switch to its full summer schedule on May 17.

Winter sunset ferry ride in Hatteras Inlet. Photo: P. Vankevich

Ocracoke events April 11 to 17

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The new Ocracoke School begins to take shape. Photo: C. Leinbach

Monday, April 11
Middle school baseball home vs Columbia Wildcats, 4 pm. Ocracoke Community ballfield.

Tuesday, April 12
Occupancy Tax Board: resumption of meeting. Community Center. 5 pm.

Wednesday, April 13
Middle school baseball home vs Mattamuskeet, 4 pm. Ocracoke Community ballfield.

Last day to comment on the NPS rehabilitation proposal for the Ocracoke lighthouse. To comment, click here. https://parkplanning.nps.gov/document.cfm?documentID=119178. See story here.

Ocracoke Advisory Planning Board, Community Center, 5:30 pm.

Thursday, April 14
Ocracoke Life Saving Church: Maundy Thursday service, 6:30 pm. See Holy Week info/flyer here.

Ocracoke Oyster Company: Brooke & Nick, 7 pm

Friday, April 15
Ocracoke United Methodist Church: Good Friday service, 11:30 am

Ocracoke Oyster Company: Martin Garrish, 7 pm

The Breeze: Train Wreck, 9:30 pm

Saturday, April 16
Ocracoke United Methodist Church, Community Easter Egg Hunt, 11 am

Ocracoke Oyster Company: Barefoot Wade, 7 pm

The Breeze: Train Wreck, 9:30 pm

Sunday, April 17
Lifeguard beach: Sunrise Easter service, 6:30 am; traditional services at both churches at 11 am

An Easter Sunrise service on Ocracoke Beach. Photo: P. Vankevich

N.C. Shell Club member finds record-breaking scotch bonnet

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Tammy Zetka with her record-breaking scotch bonnet, the N.C. state shell, and a rare find of a top snail. Photo: C. Leinbach

By Connie Leinbach

It’s almost as good as finding pirate treasure when one finds a whole scotch bonnet on the beach.

And Tammy Zetka was the queen of shells recently when she found the new state record for a scotch bonnet on Portsmouth Island during the N.C. Shell Club’s spring meeting.

This was the first time since 2019 that the club has been able to hold their spring meeting on Ocracoke and they always comb the Ocracoke and Portsmouth Island beaches while they are here.

Zetka of Durham was walking on Portsmouth near where the inlet converges with the ocean when something in the high tide area of the beach caught her eye.

“I saw the scotch bonnet marks,” she said about the item that was buried and almost flat against the sand.

It just looked like a piece of the prized shell, but she uncovered it anyway

“So, I grabbed it and it was a big one,” she said.

Unusual shells are always auctioned at the N.C. Shell Club meetings. Photo: C. Leinbach

That night, the shell was measured and found to be 87 mm long, surpassing the previous state record of 86.4 mm.

Zetka will take the honored scotch bonnet, which also happens to be the North Carolina state shell, to the NC Shell Show May 6 – 8 in the Crystal Coast Civic Center in Morehead City.

Along with her scotch bonnet, Zetka found the “find of the day” with a small top snail shell. Ocracoke and Portsmouth are the farthest northern areas of their range.

“They’re not commonly found here,” she said.

This was her second “find of the day,” which the shell club bestows after all of the members bring in what they’ve gathered for display at Saturday night’s meeting.

She also captured “find of the day” honors in 2019 with a tiny scotch bonnet.

Zetka has loved shells since her aunt, whom she often visited in Melbourne, Fla., introduced her to shelling and with whom she collected coquinas, or “butterfly shells. They’re very colorful.”

She began shelling in earnest in 2012 and when she posted a shell on Facebook, Susan O’Connor of the shell club noticed and suggested she join.

She came to her first shell club meeting in 2016 on Ocracoke. Since then, she has taken trips to South Africa to shell and goes to Florida when she can to look for those rare finds, because shelling is an adventure.

“It’s the hunt!” she said. “It’s a lot of fun.”

Here is a story on a “super find,” a sub-fossil of a junonia, on one of the adventures to Portsmouth Island, a few years ago.

Shell club member discovers ‘super find’ on Portsmouth.

To view the state shell size records, click here.

Islander Ruth Fordon talks to the N.C. Shell Club members about nesting and cold-stunned turtles on Ocracoke. Photo: C. Leinbach

Ocracoke churches set Easter activities–further updated

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Easter observances by both the Ocracoke Life Saving Church and the Ocracoke United Methodist Church begin on Sunday, April 10, with Palm Sunday services in the Methodist Church at 10 a.m. and inside the Life Saving Church at 11 a.m.

Originally, the Life Saving Church planned to do an outdoor service on the Pony Island Inn lawn but because temperatures are forecast to be in the upper 50s with winds blowing 20 to 25 mph, the Life Saving Church decided to move their service indoors.

The “praise procession” around the village will still begin at 12:30 p.m. at the Pony Island Inn (formerly motel).

The community Easter service will be at 6:30 a.m. Sunday, April 17, at the Lifeguard Beach and both churches after that will have their own services.

The Ocracoke United Methodist Church also has some events Easter week. See the Easter Week flyer below for details.