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Invasive Phragmites; the Now Common, “Un-Common” Common Reed

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Invasive Phragmites; the Now Common, “Un-Common” Common Reed
by Pat Garber

Driving along the winding lanes that border marshlands in eastern North Carolina, one might notice a tall, lovely grass, its feather-like tassels rustling gently as it sways in the breeze. It looks natural in its wetland setting, as if it has always been there; and in fact it has lived here for thousands of years. Something, however, is different. A century ago the reed would have been part of a complex ecosystem comprised of many plant species, supporting a wide variety of animal life. Today it most likely dominates its habitat, forming a mono-culture that is unnatural and uninviting for many of the animals that live in the marsh. The reed now acts as an invasive rather than a native species, destroying other natives and creating a vista that is nearly barren of other life forms.

Phragmites australis, otherwise known as common reed, is a species of wetland grass usually found in low-lying areas where there is a large amount of water in the soil and ample sunlight. It can grow from three to thirteen feet high, reaching its maximum height between the ages of five and eight years. It has cane-like stems, large feathery plumes, and an extensive root system of thick, white, leathery rhizomes which may be close to the surface or buried deep in the substrate. Its flowers are arranged along the canes in spikelets with tufts of silky hairlike fibers. A perennial, it spreads through seed dispersal and by branching rhizomes, which can break off and re-root. According to Clemson University professor Jack M. Whelston, the rhizomes produce monotypic stands of clones which are genetically identical, and which can exist for over a thousand years. The common reed is one of the most widely distributed flowering plants in the world, growing naturally on most of the continents and now throughout the continental United States, barring Alaska, and in Canada. Why and how it changed its behavior in the United States from that of an uncommon native marsh resident to that of a non-native, monopolistic invasive has puzzled scientists for years.

Some fifty thousand species of non-native plants and animals have been documented living in the United States, some introduced on purpose, others by accident. Some, such as dandelions and Queen Anne’s-lace, often referred to as exotics, can co-exist with native species without doing any real harm. Others, labeled as invasives, can wipe out native species and destroy whole ecosystems. Examples are the Japanese vine kudzu, found in the south-east; zebra mussels, which are devastating the Great Lakes; and Burmese pythons, now proliferating in the Everglades of Florida. Invasive species have been responsible for massive die-offs of elm, chestnut, and other native trees. It is estimated that the economic cost of invasive species in this country is 120 billion dollars a year, and Phragmites australis is now included.

Recent research has come up with some answers to the mystery of the “un-common” common reed in America. According to the North Carolina Forest Service and a report put out by the NC Department of Transportation, “Invasive Exotic Plants of North Carolina,” genetic testing shows that there are native and non-native haplotypes (family lineages) of Phragmites australis growing in our coastal marshes. It is the non-native plants that are overtaking wetland ecosystems. They probably arrived accidentally in the late 18th or early 19th centuries, perhaps in the ballast of ships coming from Europe. Once here, they began spreading out across the continent, displacing the native Phragmites australis and other native grasses, and forming mono-cultures where there had been healthy ecosystems. They are presently moving into the Great Plains, where they threaten to alter important habitat for several endangered species of birds.

Through genetic research scientists have identified as many as eleven haplotypes or strains of Phragmites australis—including communis, americanis and austalis, which may help to explain the deviant behavior. The invasive, European variety of Phragmites australis is far more common now in North Carolina than the native plants. They can be found growing in tidal and non-tidal brackish and saltwater marshes, along river edges, on the shores of lakes and ponds, in disturbed areas and pristine sites. They are especially common in roadside ditches. Described by Dr. Whelston as “ecosystem engineers,” they can altar entire aquatic ecosystems as they spread, reducing the productivity of fish, shellfish, birds, and other wildlife. They do provide shade, some food and nesting sites for a limited number of species.

The European strain of these plants is grown commercially in Europe and used for thatching, livestock feed, and cellulose production. Ironically, European Phragmites australis are in decline in their original territory, causing concern because of their economic value.

It is difficult to distinguish the non-native from the native reeds without genetic testing, but generally, large stands of Phragmites, such as one often sees growing along roadsides, can be assumed to be European invasives. Phragmites may also be confused with the native “giant cordgrass” (Spartina cynosuroides.)

Eliminating or controlling non-native phragmites is now a priority with North Carolina’s wetland management organizations and many environmental groups, but the job is difficult and labor intensive. Attempts to eradicate it have included burning, cutting, draining, flooding, disking, mowing, and the use of insect pests and herbicides. Some of these methods have worked in the short term, but were ineffective over the long run. J.L. Boone, PhD in Ecology, wrote in 1987 that he had had some success in using a three-prong method which included manual cutting, burning, and the covering the area with sheets of clear plastic for 70 to 120 days.

The use of the herbicide Glyphosate, labeled for use in aquatic sites, has been found to be somewhat effective. Using herbicides in wetlands, however, presents an environmental risk, so must be done with great care. The North Carolina Forest Service has had success treating the reeds with Glyphosate in late summer and early fall, followed by prescribed burns and successive treatments for several more years. It is imperative, they stress, to follow up with monitoring to prevent the reeds from re-invading.

As always, the first step in addressing an environmental concern is identifying the problem and preventing its spreading. The invasive haplotype of Phragmites australis already had a head start before it was identified as what it was, but now, as scientists learn more about it and how to remove it, perhaps North Carolina’s wetlands can be spared the worst of its effects.

Health & Wellness: Assembly of God Church

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May 2013
By Terrilynn Grace West

This is the second in a series addressing spiritual wellness, fea­turing churches on Ocracoke. Last month I wrote about the United Methodist Church. If you visit the Ocracoke Light­house, and continue on that road, you will see on the left the new (as of 2004) Assem­bly of God Church. Interest­ingly, you may have noticed the old church which was bought and moved to High­way 12 becoming a rental cottage through Ocracoke Island Realty. This older church was the first sanctu­ary built in 1941 by Stanford Jackson and other men from the church.

Even before there was a church building, worship services were held in yards, porches and homes of the congregation recounts Joyce Spencer, a native Ocracoker, “back in the early 30s, the first revivals were held in my Grandmother Mary Midg­ett’s front yard and led by Darcus Gray, Eva Dixon and Pearl Midgett who came to Ocracoke from Buxton.”

Chester Lynn, whose fam­ily grew up on Ocracoke dat­ing back to the 1600s, recalls “my family would catch fish in the front yard” which is now the Back Road! Since Chester is an historian, he re­members clearly many of the details “Sis Liz” told him about the early days of the revival meetings. “The music and joy expressed (called “getting happy”) during those ser­vices resulted in attracting many people who filled the yard to overflowing,” he said.  Chester remembers “Sis Liz was a great cook: Southern, twice as good as corn bread.”

If you visit the church you will see a wall leading into the sanctuary dedicated to the history of the church which Chester has helped create. Among the many pic­tures and documents, is an article by John T. O’Neal (Pastor Ivey’s grandfather): “How and when the As­sembly of God Church was started on Ocracoke.”

John O’Neal says that in 1938 ser­vices were held in his grand­mother Elizabeth Styron’s (known as Aunt Bett) front porch, and later as more room was needed her back porch was closed in. Lumber was hauled from the beach from the ship “Nomis” that went ashore in 1935 to build benches. It was Elizabeth Styron’s daughter Elizabeth Styron Meyers, known as ‘Aunt or Sis Liz’, who gave the land for the church where it stands today.

The new parsonage, says the pastor’s wife, Laura Belch with a smile on her face, is sometimes referred to as “Belch’s Inn” because of its open door friendliness for guidance and support. It is housed on the second floor of the present church. The lumber for the first parson­age, built in the late 40s, came from the old Pamlico Inn Ho­tel which came down in the 1944 hurricane. This parson­age burnt down in 1954. The second parsonage built in 1955 was bought, preserved and now stands behind the Pizza Company on Irvin Garrish Highway.

Pastor Ivey speaks of the Assembly of God Church as his “home church.” He grew up on Ocracoke, graduating with the high school class of 1994 and has fond memo­ries of playing music with his grandfather in church. Ivey Belch then went to the University of North Caro­lina Charlotte and East Coast Bible College where he re­ceived a minister’s degree. His first appointment was in his grandmother’s home town of Askewville, NC, as a youth pastor. The minister of this church married his parents and then the min­ister’s son married Ivey and Laura in 1998 just before they moved back to Ocracoke. Ivey and Laura were ac­tive in the church, especially working with the youth, until in 2010, he was appointed the interim pastor, becoming the full time pastor January 2011.

He says he appreciates the tight knit closeness of the community and church. “For a smaller congregation, we support 10 missionar­ies overseas,” Ivey explained. Laura Belch is the “kids pas­tor,” and is active with the Sunday school classes, wom­en’s Bible study class and generally serves as needed. Gail Allen, a relative newcomer, moved to Ocracoke four years ago and is on the “wor­ship team,” she chooses both old and new hymns for the Sunday Service. Gail said, “Pastor Ivey is a wonderful pastor who has a strong re­lationship with the Lord and a good handle on scripture.” Gail quoted the Gospel of John 8:12 where Jesus said, “I am the Light of the world” and said she thinks of the church as being a “spiritual lighthouse” on Ocracoke.

Judy Garrish, native of Ocracoke, has served as a church board member in the past for 10 years. She says, “the Holy Spirit draws a per­son to church and changes your life; we welcome new­comers.”  She and everyone I talked with stressed the importance of the Assembly of God church being Bible based. Joyce Spencer says, “I enjoy singing the songs in church; they are food for the soul.”  When I attended a church service the beauty of the sanctuary, spirit of the music, the zealous preaching all helped me understand why folks I talked with said, “the presence of the Lord can be felt here.” 

Terrilynn Grace West lives and works on Ocracoke providing warm water massage therapy. http://www.floatwithgrace.com.

 Ground Breaking for New Ocracoke Volunteer Fire Department Building

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OVFD groundbreaking photo
Tommy & Julia Hutcherson break round for the new fire station. Looking on left to right Ernie Doshier, Janie Jacoby, Teresa & Albert O ‘Neal and Dick Jacoby Photo by C. Leinbach


May 2013
by Connie Leinbach

Ocracoke will have a new fire house in about eight months, following the long awaited ground breaking at the site of a new Ocracoke Volunteer Fire Department building along Irvin Gar­rish Highway Monday.

About 60 residents came out to support the event as crew members from Pre­miere Construction Inc. of Kitty Hawk began laying out the foundation. The site of the new building is just under an acre and was do­nated by the Hutcherson family, owners of the Va­riety Store.

“They didn’t ask me for it, I volunteered the land,” said Julia, who is Tommy’s mother, be­fore the two used official ground-breaking shovels. “I knew they needed land and I asked them if this would work. This is a good place for the firehouse.”

Board President Dick Ja­coby, as master of ceremo­nies, thanked the fire com­pany’s board, the building designers and all the vol­unteers who have helped realize this project. Local pastors Ivey Belch and Lau­ra Stern opened and closed the ceremony.

Ernie Doshier, chair of the building committee that oversaw design of the new structure, thanked his vol­unteers. “It’s amazing that a community of this size and the visitors that come here have enabled us to raise the amount of money to do this,” he said.

The two-story fire house will be brick ma­sonry with an asphalt shin­gle roof. One million dollars have already been raised to fund the estimated price tag of $1.2 million, Jacoby said, adding that he was very pleased with the number of folks who attended the ceremony. The new build­ing will amply house the company’s five vehicles in its four bays as one bay will stack two ve­hicles, Jacoby said.

That all the vehicles are inside a heated build­ing may help the fire company get a better insurance rating. Last year, the state insurance office gave the company a 6 rating, down from 8, which Jacoby said is good. “The lower the number, the better,” he said.

Since then, the company purchased a ladder truck, which may further lower the compa­ny’s rating, but it’s not a sure thing. Jacoby said it is up to homeown­ers to inform their insur­ance com­panies of the OVFD’s change in rating, al­though many insurance companies have this infor­mation.

Bingo will continue this summer from early May until the end of August in the current fire house along Back Road, but of­ficials do not know if there will be bingo next summer when they move into the new quarters, said Teresa O’Neal, who runs the pop­ular Tuesday night event.

The OVFD is planning its annual Firemen’s Ball, its annual fundraiser, for Saturday, May 25, in the Oc­racoke Community Center. The day will start off the day with a pig pickin’, fol­lowed by a silent and a live auction, finishing off with live music by three great lo­cal favorites: The Ocracoke Rockers, The Aaron Caswell Band and The Dune Dogs.

Ocracoke Student Makes History

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May 2013

By Connie Leinbach

Ocracoke School ju­nior Andrew Tillett has made Ocracoke history. Recently he received the “all-district” honor for his varsity basketball perfor­mance this year with the Oc­racoke Dolphins.

The district is made up of Hyde, Dare, Tyrell, Perqui­mans, Washington and Hert­ford counties, and Andrew is the first in Ocracoke history to receive this honor, noted head basketball coach David Allewalt.

Andrew, a center, averag­es about 18 points per game and 15 rebounds, Allewalt said.“He has 800 career points and will probably end his high school career with 1,000 points,” Allewalt said. That would make Andrew the all-time leading scorer in Ocracoke basketball history, Allewalt continued. That’s not to take away from some of the students in the 1980s and ‘90s who are now in the Ocracoke Hall of Fame, who played about 15 games per season. In the last few years, the Ocracoke team has played about 22 games per season, creating the oppor­tunity for athletes to score higher.

Andrew finished the 2013 year with 404 points. “That’s definitely the most I’ve scored in one season,” Andrew said in a recent in­terview about the team’s ac­complishments, especially beating the number one team, Columbia, in the semi-finals of the Tideland Athlet­ic  Conference Tournament   “We were able to beat them on their home turf,” Andrew said about the top-seeded team. “It was fun.” The Dolphins ultimately lost the tournament to number two seed Mattamuskeet. But every year prior to this, Oc­racoke was eliminated in the first round.

This year’s varsity basket­ball team achievements have gained on all the previous years as they were tied for third overall in regular sea­son play. “This is the first time the boys basketball team fin­ished with more wins than losses, or an over 500 record,” Allewalt said. “They beat ev­ery team in the conference during the season and they got to their first-ever tourna­ment conference final.” It’s the best they’ve ever done.

In addition to the All-Dis­trict honor, Tillett has racked up more this season. He was named most valuable player of the Bethel Invitational tourna­ment in December; he made the first team of the Lt. Nick Brantley Scholarship Tourna­ment; he was named to the first team of the All-Tideland Athletic conference.

Allewalt has coached An­drew since his freshman year. “He has good instincts around the rim and he always wants to do better,” Allewalt says of his charge. “He’s re­ally intelligent and absorbs things like a sponge.”

For his part, Andrew says he likes competition and the game of basketball. “I like competition,” Andrew says. “I don’t why, but I definitely can be competitive. I’m tall and lanky, and basketball is something I can excel at.” Tillett, who says his GPA is above 4.0 owing to his taking advanced placement courses, will attend the Gov­ernor’s School this summer at Meredith College in Ra­leigh, the only student going from Ocracoke School. Al­though he loves history, he will study natural science for the five weeks in Raleigh.

As for basketball, Andrew will keep his skills sharp this summer in the Amateur Ath­letic Union (AAU) team that Allewalt got him into for a couple of tournaments. In between these activities, you can sometimes see Andrew working in his mom Leslie Lanier’s shop Books to be Red.

Other students on the team this year were Wyatt Nor­ris, Walker Garrish, Dalton Kalna, Evan Caswell, Adam Carter, Casey Tolson and Kade Nagakane.

Rep. Paul Tine opposes “game fish bill”

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Representative Tine an­nounced today that he strongly opposes House Bill 983 entitled, 2013 Fisheries Economic Develop­ment Act.

“This bill is a thinly-veiled effort by special interests to accomplish one thing, to elim­inate commercial fishermen from catching Trout, Rockfish, and Drum,” said Representa­tive Tine. “Commercial fishing is vital to our economy; we should be focused on finding ways to support our commer­cial fishing industry rather than adding new limitations and regulations.”

The bill ties dredging mea­sures, compensation to some fishing industries, and fisher­ies observer program funding to making three species of fish only available to recreational fishermen.

“Dredging and fisheries management support needs to be a priority for the state all the time, not as a condition of giving up the right to fish certain species,” stated Rep. Tine. “We should not be in the business of picking winners and losers by decreeing from Raleigh who can access these fish. Right now, about 10% of the catch goes to commercial fishermen and the consumer. It is irresponsible to eliminate their access to a public trust fishery to accommodate a special interest.”

Paul Tine stated that he would be working with fisher­men from all over the region to continue a concerted effort to fight the bill and that sev­eral members of the Coastal Caucus were collaborating to try and defeat the bill.

Ocracoke Community Park Becomes a Reality

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May 2013

On an ordinary Tues­day evening in April, something quite ex­traordinary happened on Ocracoke.

The Ocracoke Community Park Committee announced that the island’s long dreamed-of green space dedicated to recreation is now a reality. To understand just how extraordinary an undertak­ing this is, one must consider the uniqueness of Ocracoke Is­land. The majority of the island is owned by the Cape Hatteras National Seashore. The vil­lage of Ocracoke comprises 963 acres of which 394 acres is marshland. Of the original 569 acres suitable for de­velopment, 450 acres have al­ready been improved.

There are no tennis courts, ball fields or public playgrounds – the only recreational facility is the Ocracoke High School Gym. Back in the day, before the is­land was “discovered”, there was a ball field where the boat ramp is now located; many other ad hoc fields served the purpose until land became so scarce that all hopes of a real park were practically dashed. In addition, Ocracoke’s coun­ty-Hyde-is the second poor­est in North Carolina and has no resources for recreational expenditures. And, yes, it is a real island.

When the Ocracoke Youth Center worked with the Hat­teras Island Little League a few years ago to organize a lo­cal baseball team (now part of the Cal Ripkin Division, Hat­teras Babe Ruth Little League), the fledgling group had no place to practice. Keith Mc­Dermott generously offered his lush green front lawn to the team. One of the coaches made a portable wooden mound to simulate real game settings, and distances between porta­ble bases were paced off – left field was considerable short­ened due to the presence of an ancient cedar tree in its midst. The kids have been playing their hearts out ever since… and winning.

Because of the joy gener­ated by this small undertak­ing, a renewed interest in finding a suitable space large enough for baseball, soccer and other field sports was fu­eled by a group of parents and citizens who formed the Base­ball Committee that subse­quently joined forces with the Youth Center, a local 501(3) nonprofit established in 1995 to provide recreational sup­port to island families. With the increasing number of school children living on the island, Ocracoke has enough youngsters to participate in team sports. These sports teach children about team­work, competition, managing conflict, regional awareness, integrity, effective communi­cation, problem solving and goal setting. The Committee also recognized the benefit to the community of environ­mental education programs with outdoor venues, sum­mer programs, and even adult sport events. Together, the joint Ocracoke Community Park Committee, comprised of Bob Chestnut, David S. Es­ham, John Giagu, Bill Cole, Justin Leblanc, Tyler Gilbert, Greg Honeycutt, Garick Kalna, Vince O’Neal, Brian Samick, Melina Sutton and Bill Rich commenced an intense search.

Some bighearted local landowners offered their parcels, but none were large enough; the Ocracoke Com­munity Cemetery Associa­tion also expressed interest in helping. Again, the available land proved to be unsuitable. National Seashore acreage re­mained out-of-bounds.

By 2012, Ocracoke’s “field of dreams” was finally found. The last piece of private land large enough to support the envisioned Ocracoke Commu­nity Park became within reach. The Burrus tract of a little over 5 acres had been subdi­vided with septic permits se­cured for 6 large homes. But the real estate market on Oc­racoke deteriorated along with the rest of the U.S. and no lots were purchased. The Burrus owners were approached and a deal was negotiated for 100% owner financing at 3% inter­est with payments scheduled over a ten-year period. Nine months later, the last permit has been obtained. The new Ocracoke Community Park will have its sports field for baseball and soccer. It will also have a 2,400 square foot Activi­ties Center for community and classroom events. After years of wishing and hoping and dreaming, it is happening.

On that same Tuesday night in April, the Ocracoke Com­munity Park Committee intro­duced the proposed budget for this historic endeavor and the kick-off of the Capital Cam­paign to support it. There are donor opportunities ranging from naming the baseball or soccer field to name recogni­tion at the Activities Center. Gifts can be structured over a 3 to 5 year pledge period; larger gifts ($50,000+) can be struc­tured over a longer period. Specific and detailed budget and donor opportunities can be obtained from the Commit­tee members. A website is be­ing developed to provide easy access to all information.

In the words of Bob Chest­nut, Board Chair, OYC: “Thank you in advance for your sup­port and I hope that you’ll join us when it’s time to hear “PLAY BALL!” on Ocracoke.

 Ferry tolls, channel dredging and Highway 12 are continued woes

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April 2013

by Connie Leinbach

Ocracoke islanders and visitors have geared up for another ferry toll fight this spring.

Eliminate all tolls on ferries in North Carolina is the new ral­lying cry for Ocracoke and other coastal areas with ferries, but it will be a tough fight as many new legislators are not familiar with the coast.

In 2011, the state legislature proposed to raise $5 million in revenue, up from $2 million, from the NC Department of Transportation Ferry Division budget. That year, the Legis­lature agreed to no tolls on the Hatteras and Knotts Island fer­ries in exchange for raising tolls on other ferries.

But in 2012, former Gov. Bev Perdue ordered a one-year mor­atorium on this action. The mor­atorium expired in January and the Legislature adopted a new resolution directing the Ferry Division to establish ferry tolls.

The NCDOT again held sev­eral hearings recently along the coast about its recommended revenue plan. This plan would raise fees on the Swan Quar­ter and Cedar Island ferries by more than twice the current price, including a $5 fee for all passengers.

On a positive note, several state House and Senate mem­bers are drafting legislation call­ing for the elimination of all tolls on the ferries and raising new revenue through other means. At press time, these bills had not been introduced.

No legislators attended any of the hearings, but on Ocracoke close to 200 people attended the March hearing and overwhelm­ingly spoke against having any ferry tolls at all and the need to look at the ferries as an asset, not a burden.

“We are against all ferry taxes—period,” said Henri Mc­Clees, of the Joe and Henri Mc­Clees team of lobbyists hired by Hyde, Beaufort and Pamlico counties to represent the coast in Raleigh. “The legislature is the problem and the legislature is the solution. You need to bom­bard them with emails that we will not tolerate this.”

The lobbyists have asked that the emails begin after the bills are introduced so that legislators have something specific to refer to. Islanders and visitors can get updated details on the plan and issue at several websites: the Hyde County website: www. hydecountync.gov, the OCBA website: http://www.ocracokevillage. com, and the Ocracoke Current, http://www.ocracokecurrent.com.

“When I grew up there was no ferry,” said Rudy Austin, president of the Ocracoke Civic and Business Association, who noted that many who grew up here several decades ago had to go off the island to get jobs. “The ferry has enabled us to have the community we have here.”

Ridership has gone down drastically in recent years, add­ed Jerry Gaskill of Cedar Island, who is a former director of the Ferry Division. “The money it takes to collect the tolls would be better used for advertising for tourists. If we continue to raise tolls, we won’t have anything here.”

The engineer who conducted a survey last year for the DOT, Will Letchworth of CDM Smith, Raleigh, attended the meeting and confirmed that his research showed that the state would in­cur costs to build the infrastruc­ture needed to collect tolls on untolled ferries and that there would be a decrease in ridership if tolls were raised.

But beleaguered Ocracoke islanders face attacks from oth­er directions. Mother Nature wrought more havoc this winter on Highway 12 at the S-curves where the ocean over washed the road after the DOT placed sandbags there after Super­storm Sandy in October. Fortu­nately, the bags have held back the ocean but some sand may still be on the road. Updates on this can be found at the Face­book page: ncdot NC 12.

Newly elected Gov. Pat Mc­Crory recently declared that section of Highway 12 in a state of emergency, which has autho­rized the DOT conduct beach nourishment to protect the high­way in the short term.

The pipeline dredge is still working in the Hatteras Inlet channel and is expected to finish mid-April. Until then, the NC Ferry Division is using an alter­nate route between the islands that takes about an hour, and the ferry schedules have changed until the regular ferry can re­sume. Updates on the schedules can be found at www.ncdot.org/ ferry.

Are we ever going to catch a break?

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April 2013
by BJ Oelschlegel

As a resident of Oc­racoke, I have of­ten felt like “The Lone Ranger,” living in a small category of commu­nities that have their live­lihoods, homes and prop­erty totally at the mercy of the weather. When you are in the middle of it, you think that you are the only one. I’ve had to pull my blinders back to include the effects of Hurricane Sandy (2012) on the entire east coast, the droughts in the Midwest and the increase in the tornadoes in the South. For us lately, the fight is harder.

Hurricanes have al­ways been accepted and integrated into the cost of living on the island and/or the cost of doing busi­ness. There was a point in our history when cleanup after a storm was the most pressing task and getting the word out to the pub­lic, that we were “up and running again” was the gravest business concern. More recently, within the past 10 years, we would have to include overwash or a new inlet being cut. We’ve lost direct access via N.C. Route 12 for a month or so at a time. Recovery was taking longer, but there always appeared to be an endpoint.

Now, winds of 35 mph are the kiss of death for the life line we call Route 12. We’re back to needing sharper and more central­ized lines of communica­tion because the road con­ditions are changing so rapidly. “Opened, closed, passable but through salt water, four-wheel drive only, closed after dark.”   These are the words we hear when inquiring about passage to a doc­tor’s appointment or any other purposes off the is­land. One might be able to get off but should always have a backup plan for being stranded on the re­turn.

It’s crazy to have to check the tide charts to de­termine if there is enough water for the ferry to move through the channel. The same high tide that would get you from one island to the next, might be too much water for the “S” Curves in Rodanthe. Ul­timately this winter, we were without a Hatteras ferry option. The channel had filled in and the boats would run aground.

This frustration has ev­erything to do with Moth­er Nature and absolutely nothing to do with the NC DOT.  The crews, on The Outer Banks and the Fer­ry Division have worked tirelessly to keep up with her. I heard that one “blow” could wash away 350 dump trucks full of sand in a night. The Swan Quarter Ferry put on extra runs to be able to guaran­tee the residents, vendors and guests access to the island. The Army Corps of Engineers flew over the inlet between Hatteras and Ocracoke and found a new channel to use while the old one is dredged. It takes longer but that is mi­nor in the bigger scheme of things. Thankfully, this has all occurred during the down time of the win­ter.

BUT, if we thought we could weather yet anoth­er storm, our fears and disappointments are ac­erbated by a few “person-made” problems. That dang recession has gotten its dirty fingers into ev­erything. The discretion­ary income, of our guests, has had a bite taken out of it. They desperately want to come but maybe have less to spend on the extras like gifts, beach clothes, services or dinners out. I am going to venture that the recession also has had its effect on the dollars available to maintain the dredging of the channel. A dredge in the Pamlico Sound used to be such a common occurrence that we all took it for granted.

Take the recession and add uninterrupted access to the island as an addi­tional worry. Heaven for­bid, too many people start listening to the negative press and make the choice not to visit the island, as a result. Hand ringing abounds. The faucet of day tripper traffic must stay open for the business community to stay alive all along Route 12.

Ah, but there is more. Our new North Carolina legislators have decided that our ferry traffic must foot more of the bill for the service of being trans­ported to the island. That might sound rational un­til you think of that ferry as the road to the door of your house. It sounds to me that the state is shoot­ing themselves in the foot when you think about the amount of revenue gener­ated for the state coffers, from The Outer Banks.

This is ferry toll ques­tion is a much bigger conversation and not the point of my article.  An­other shop owner and I were discussing this very set of topics when we both simultaneously came out with the same phrase: “How much more can we take?” Outer Bankers have always been a resil­ient people; they have to be. But if life on the is­land were a prize fight, you might have fear that you would be able to stay on your feet for the next round.

When these fears be­gin to circle, I feel that I can count on the power of the voice of Dare County. The governor and his Department of Transportation head flew into Manteo for a NC DOT hearing within the last two weeks. These guys were immedi­ately put into a 4 x 4 and driven down to the “S” curve in Rodanthe. They spoke with Dare County officials and residents for two hours.

I’m keeping my fingers crossed. In an ef­fort to maintain the faith, I also try and remember the passion for the island exhibited by our guests. People fall in love with Ocracoke and I’m banking on this being a resource which will not be affected by tolls, long lines or lon­ger ferry rides. They will come–hopefully in num­bers enough to weather one more storm.

Spring Fishing

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April 2013

by Ken DeBarth

It is that time of year again! Spring is here and it is time to go fish­ing. After the long winter, you are probably anxious to get out on the beach and to start the year with a memo­rable catch.

April and May are great time to fish Ocracoke’s waters. The red drum and bluefish are very active in the spring. The big drum that have spent the winter in the ocean will move to the beaches to feed and into the sounds to breed and spend the summer. Bluefish that moved south in the fall are following the warming water temperatures north again. Big specimens of both species are available in the spring.

With a very few excep­tions, fish are cold-blooded animals. This means their metabolic processes, needs and demands are depen­dent on their environ­ment. The cold water tem­peratures of winter slow a fish’s metabolism which means they do not require as much food to survive. In the spring, as the water temperature rises, a fish’s metabolism will speed up and they require more food to meet this demand. What this means to you is hungry fish aggressively feeding.

Big drum spend the win­ter in the ocean and move through the inlets into the sounds in the spring. April is the main month for this migration. Even though the drum move through the inlets, they can be caught anywhere along the beach in the spring.

Use large pieces of fresh cut mullet on 4/0 to 6/0 cir­cle hooks on a bottom rig. Crabs are good bait, too, but it is sometimes hard to find crabs for bait.

Circle hooks move to the corner of the fish’s mouth before hooking the fish. This prevents deep internal injury to the fish and allows you to release a healthy fish to breed and hopefully to be caught again. When fish­ing a circle hook, allow the fish to run with the bait and then slowly pick up the ten­sion on the line and begin to reel. Jerking the line to set the hook like you would with a “J” hook will pull the circle hook out of the fish’s mouth preventing a hook-up. If this doesn’t make sense, ask someone at the tackle shop or another an­gler to show you how this works.

Be sure your bait is fresh. You want a lot of blood, oil and scent in the water. Se­rious drum anglers will re­place their baits every 20 to 30 minutes.

April brings some of the year’s biggest bluefish to the beach. Blues are very aggressive feeders.. Larger blues will not hesitate to eat smaller blues so they travel in schools of like sized fish.

Use the same bait and rigs for blues that you use for drum.

It is a good idea to keep a second (or third) rod rigged with a metal casting lure like a Hopkins, SlingSilver, or Gotcha ready. Occasion­ally a school of surface-feeding blues will suddenly appear and you need to be ready for the quick shift to lures. Casting a lure into a school of jumping, slashing, feeding blues is not only very exciting, it is very pro­ductive.

Watch the birds. They will follow schools of bait and predator fish. Cast lures toward the birds, and it is a good idea to keep a bottom-bait rig in that area as well.

Be sure to check size and bag limits. Anglers can keep one drum per day be­tween 18” and 27”; smaller and larger fish must be re­leased unharmed. Blues do not have a size limit but bag limits vary based on the size of the fish.

Spring is great time to fish the waters around Oc­racoke! Good luck and tight lines!

Ken DeBarth lives and fishes on Ocracoke Island.

Ocracoke’s unexpected visitor

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April 2013

 by Pat Garber

Ocracoke Island had an unexpected visi­tor on the afternoon of Monday, January 21. An­nounced by the pings from her tracking device, a North Atlantic Great White Shark swam along the island’s shore and briefly entered Ocracoke Inlet. The shark, sixteen feet long and report­edly weighing an amaz­ing 3,456 pounds, was one of 36 sharks—22 of them Great Whites–be­ing tracked by scientists from the research facility, Ocearch. The mature fe­male had been captured, tagged and released on September 17, 2012, off the coast of Cape Cod, and the researchers had followed her travels since then.

Mary Lee, named for the mother of one of Ocearch’s expedition leaders, Chris Fischer, had headed south from Cape Cod and had meandered her way down to Jackson­ville, Florida before turn­ing around and returning north. The tag, or beacon, which is attached to her dorsal fin, pings off of a satellite, giving exact de­tails of her location and allowing Ocearch to track her movements. Fischer   said that when one of the sharks swims too close to populated areas he gives notice so that people can stay safe. That is what he did when Mary Lee ap­proached Ocracoke on Jan­uary 21.

Ocearch, the organiza­tion conducting the re­search, is a non-profit dedicated to studying the giants of the ocean. Begun by Fischer, who hosted the Emmy Award-winning television series, “Offshore Adventures,” it provides support for leading re­searchers and research in­stitutions to conduct shark studies. Its 126-foot moth­ership, the M/V Ocearch, is equipped with a 75,000 hy­draulic lift, a research plat­form, and an at-sea lab.

Fischer and the crew at Ocearch are very excited about following Mary Lee, calling her “the most his­toric and legendary shark” ever tagged. They hope to learn more, from her and their other tagged sharks, about the medium and long range movement patterns of Great Whites. They are also interested in their re­productive behavior, the behavior of juveniles, in­dividual movements, the location of coastal aggrega­tion sites, and general life history. This knowledge will be useful in conservation efforts to protect sharks, which on a world-wide lev­el are in decline.

Sharks are among the most awe-inspiring, feared and misunderstood crea­tures on earth. They belong, along with rays and skates, to the class of fish, Chron­drichthyes, or “cartilage fish.” Their structure is sup­ported not by bone, but by cartilage, a flexible, elastic material full of cell spaces. They have tough, abrasive skin and are, contrary to common lore, are quite in­telligent. Of the more than 300 species, most are too small to pose a threat to hu­mans, and some are benign plankton-feeders. Great Whites are among the po­tentially dangerous species.

Great Whites, known to biologists as Carcharodon carcharias, are found in the coastal waters of all the great oceans. They belong to the Lamnidae family, also known as Mackerel Sharks, because of the shape of their tails. Portrayed in the book and movie, “Jaws,” as ferocious man-killers, they seldom attack humans, pre­ferring a diet of fish and marine mammals such as seals. They are not actually white, but may range from off-white to dark gray-brown, with white under­sides. They have a circula­tory modification known as a “rete mirabile” (wonder­ful net) that allows them to maintain a higher body temperature than the wa­ter around them. This gives them extra energy for high speed chases and attacks.

When Mary Lee ap­proached the Ocracoke coast Ocearch contacted the Hyde County Sheriff’s Dept., which called the Cape Hatteras NPS office at Ocracoke. Josh Vann, who took the call, immediately posted it on Facebook. He then drove the beaches to make sure there were no surfers in the water, and he warned several fishermen who were fishing in the surf.

Ocracoke is no stranger to visits from sharks. In July of 2011 a young girl was bitten by a shark while swimming off the island’s coast. She was air-lifted out and made a full recov­ery. Farther north, off Cape Hatteras in 2004, a man was attacked and killed by a shark. Spiny dog sharks are common inhabitants of the island’s waters in winter, often filling the fishing nets of commercial fishermen and providing a winter live­lihood. Long-liners catch Mako, Black-tip, Dusky, and Sandbar sharks in Oc­racoke’s offshore waters, and huge whale sharks and basking sharks occasion­ally wash up on the beach. In May of 1997 islanders streamed by the Fish House to see a ten-foot, six-inch Great White caught ac­cidentally by a long-liner fishing for smaller sharks.

Great Whites and other sharks, at the top of the ocean’s food chain, play a crucial role in maintaining a balance in marine ecosys­tems. Over-fishing threat­ens a number of species. With up to 25% of the great sharks facing extinction, re­search such as that being done with Mary Lee could play an important role in preserving them. As Mary Lee continues her jour­ney north, researchers and interested followers will continue to track her prog­ress. At last report she was headed for her home state of Massachusetts.