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Welcome to the Ocracoke Observer’s website

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Considering the digital times we live in, it was inevitable that the Ocracoke Observer, like the vast majority of print newspapers, have a web presence. Every month, we are challenged to decide what articles to print. This website will permit us to include breaking news and expanded stories printed in the monthly. Our archives, already quite substantial, include selected stories of interest published in the Observer over the years.
You will see some new features here we are excited about.

One is the literary journal, Salt & Wind. Writers can submit their short stories, poetry and vignettes to our literary editor, Kelley Shinn.  (See the link in the Categories on the home page.) While our preference will be for works that relate to Ocracoke, coastal North Carolina and the salt life, all submissions will be reviewed.  Good writing is good writing and that’s what you will read here.
Another innovative section is our audio recordings with oral histories, interviews and music. We are still developing this. So expect some interesting additions.
This is a multilingual website with information and news in Spanish, and general information about Ocracoke for French and German speakers who may be deciding where to take their next vacation.
Feel free to send us your questions about past and present Ocracoke to “Ask the Observer: All things Ocracoke.” When appropriate, include a photo of the plant, bird or other animal you saw on the island. If necessary, we have several subject experts that can help with the answer.
We are also featuring a Young Creators section where students 14 and younger may submit their writings, artwork, photographs and songs for others to enjoy.
If you enjoy reading about Ocracoke’s history and its people, the flora and fauna of the island, fishing and wonderful recipes, we have selected many articles from past issues and will continue to add more material.
Please bear with us. This is in beta stage and we will make edits and corrections as we test this site over the next few weeks.
It is our hope with this website to further the Observer’s mission of illuminating the unique experience of Ocracoke Island by communicating important community news, history and culture.
For helping to get this website up and running, we wish to warmly thank Aimee Hill, James Grimaldi, Jock Lauterer and Beck Tench.

 

 

The deadline to register to vote or update voter registration records is Oct. 10.

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The Ocracoke Observer will soon provide comprehensive information on voting in the Nov. 4 General Election. An early heads up is that the deadline to register to vote or update voter registration records is Oct. 10. Here is some important information provided by the Hyde County Elections Office so that you will be able to exercise your right to vote, come election time.

Voter Registration
Becoming a registered voter in Hyde County is simple, and there  are several ways to do so.
For online voter registration applications, visit http://www.ncsbe.gov/ncsbe/Voter-Information/VR-Form.  Hard copies can be obtained from the Elections Office during business hours, or any public library.  You can also register to vote while at the DMV.  To request an application by mail you can call the Elections Office at (252) 926-4194, send a fax to (252) 926-3707, or email a request to Viola Williams, vwilliams@hydecountync.gov.

Requirements for Voter Registration:

  • A U.S. Citizen
    •  A resident of North Carolina and this county for 30 days before the election
    •  At least 18 years of age on or before the next general election
    •  Not registered and not voting in any other county or state
    •  If convicted of a felony, your rights of citizenship must have been restored

Future Voter ID requirements in North Carolina

Un coup de foudre!

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Annie Lawrence 2014-03-07 21.35.22
Francis Roy, Eva Roy and Annie Lawrence Photo Peter Vankevich

Veuillez voir Pockets of  Culture 

Par Annie Lawrence de St-Hugues au Québec

Nous avons découvert l’île d’Ocracoke tout à fait par hasard en août 2013. Nous n’avions pas entendu parler de cet endroit auparavant. Pour notre retour de vacances en Floride, nous voulions suivre la côte Est des États-Unis jusqu’au Québec. Nous nous sommes arrêtés dans un centre d’information touristique de la Caroline du Nord où une employée nous a proposé d’aller visiter l’île du célèbre pirate Barbe Noire.

Nous avons eu un souper mémorable sur la terrasse du Jolly Roger avec un coucher de soleil magnifique. Un peu plus tard, à l’entrée d’une boutique, nous avons été accueillis par un homme très sympathique qui s’est adressé à nous en français pour nous dire : « Bienvenue dans notre île formidable! » L’homme dont il est question est nul autre que Peter Vankevich. Nous avions tellement de questions à lui poser concernant la vie des insulaires et il a très patiemment répondu à chacune d’elles.

Notre séjour fut très court (1 seule nuit), mais nous avons tout de même fait quelques brefs arrêts (plages, sentier près du camping du National Seashore, Cimetière Britanique, etc.) avant de partir. Le paysage, les gens et l’ambiance nous ont charmés et nous avons quitté l’île en nous promettant d’y revenir un jour.

Ce jour est arrivé 6 mois plus tard.

Pendant la semaine de relâche scolaire (début du mois de mars), la plus âgée de mes filles et moi, nous devions aller rejoindre mon mari qui traversait les Everglades en canot. Évidemment, pour le voyage de retour, nous voulions passer par Ocracoke. Le temps était pluvieux, mais nous étions très heureux d’être là. Peter avait réuni des amies à lui pour un souper francophone auquel nous étions invités et nous y avons rencontrer des gens très chaleureux.

Malheureusement, notre 2e séjour ne fut pas plus long que le 1er (encore une seule nuit), mais l’envie d’y retourner est encore plus fort.

Je ne crois pas qu’on puisse se lasser de cet endroit et je me promets qu’un jour mon passage à Ocracoke sera plus long.

Par Annie Lawrence de St-Hugues au Québec

français

Heart like a river: local author keeps ancestor’s Civil War stories alive

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September 2014
By Peter Vankevich

Pat Garber PS
Pat Garber. Photo by P. Vankevich

Islander-author Pat Garber might not be here had it not been for Gen. George Armstrong Custer.

She revealed this Aug. 19 during her talk in the Oc­racoke Library about her latest book Heart Like a River: the story Sergeant Major Newsom Edward Jenkins 14th North Carolina Infantry, 1861-1865 (Schroeder Publications 2011).

Jenkins, in a meticulous di­ary that’s part of Garber’s family papers, was captured at Appomattox in 1865, and was scheduled to be executed. A northern general, after hearing that Robert E. Lee had surren­dered, halted the process spar­ing Jenkins’ life. That general was none other than George Armstrong Custer.

“Had it not been for Custer, I might not have been born,” Garber said about her great-grandfather’s reprieve.

Her book about her great-grandfather’s years during the Civil War is based on family-held letters and his diary.

That Jenkins survived that terrible war was just shy of a miracle and he went on to lead a prosperous life, passing away in 1921. He fought in 13 bat­tles, including Williamsburg, Sharpsburg, Gettysburg and Appomattox. Not surprisingly, he was twice wounded and twice captured.

Although Garber had been aware of surviving Civil War letters held by the family, it was much later as an adult that she learned of the existence of a di­ary Jenkins had written during the war.

The problem was that it was very difficult to read because of the small handwriting.

Garber recounted how she took the diary with her to a cabin in the Adirondacks dur­ing the winter of 2002.

“With three feet of snow on the ground, I took on the me­ticulous task of transcribing the diary one page at a time,” she said.

heart-like-a-riverThe result of her tenacious efforts was an insightful look at the Civil War through the eyes of a Confederate soldier, and, with a series of short es­says interspersed, a perspective from Garber, the great-grand­daughter.

“In all of his writings, he never men­tioned slavery as a reason for the war,” she noted. Rath­er, “to him it was the de­fending the homeland and against in­vaders.”

Garber discussed her own life growing up a proud daughter of the Con­federacy and later an anti-war activist and Civil Rights supporter.

She got her undergraduate degree in Native American Studies, and over her career worked with several tribes in different capacities.

Considering her background and career, this connection to Custer was a shock.

Multi-talented, Garber, who also is a poet and songwriter, smiled as she held her guitar to begin her talk.

“I bet you didn’t expect a song,” she said, and proceeded to sing the Civil War bal­lad, Johnny Reb, that she grew up hearing in the family household.

The book gets its titles from one of Jenkins’s en­tries in 1863: “The heart is like a river, when soft or fluent it flows through it channels, and cheers and invigorates life, but when hard or frozen it only reflects a far off shadow of surrounding objects.”

This book is available on the island at Books to be Red, the Village Craftsmen and the Va­riety Store.

Bonner Bridge to close for 30 minutes Monday morning for safety check

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Bonner Bridge
The Herbert C. Bonner Bridge over the Oregon Inlet. Photo by C. Leinbach

Single-lane on Bonner Bridge Monday through Thursday to follow safety check

RALEIGH — The Herbert C. Bonner Bridge over the Oregon Inlet, linking Nags Head to Pea Island, will close from 9 to 9:30 a.m. Monday (Sept. 15) while crews perform a mobile scan of the deck.
N.C. Department of Transportation crews will halt traffic on both ends of the bridge for 30 minutes as they perform the routine scan of the bridge deck.
The bridge will reopen to traffic at 9:30 a.m. with a single lane closure through 4:30 p.m.to allow crews to verify the location data gathered that morning, specifically along the southern portion of the bridge. The lane closure will continue Tuesday (Sept. 16) through Thursday (Sept. 18), from 8:30 a.m. until 4:30 p.m. each day.
The single-lane closure will only be set up on the bridge where crews are located and will move as their safety check moves along the bridge deck. NCDOT traffic crews will direct traffic on the bridge through the lane closure.
Motorists are advised to use caution while traveling in the area and to prepare for delays. For real-time travel information at any time, call 511, visit the NCDOT traffic website or follow NCDOT on Twitter.
Another option is NCDOT Mobile, a phone-friendly version of the NCDOT website. To access it, type “m.ncdot.gov” into the browser of your smart phone. Then, bookmark it to save for future reference.
NCDOT Mobile is compatible with the iPhone, Android and some newer Blackberry phones.
This final scan will provide the DOT with the last piece of information it needs to have a historical database of location coordinates for the bridge deck.
With this information, NCDOT will be able to evaluate the bridge following hurricanes and other severe weather events at any time of the year.
Once this scan is complete, mobile scans will take place once a year and after severe weather events.
During the course of the last year, the NCDOT has performed mobile scans every three months on the deck of the Bonner Bridge.
In addition to deck scans, NCDOT also performs monthly underwater sonar scans, which enable engineers to check for signs of scour, where sand has drifted away from the pilings. The monthly underwater sonar scan for September also will take place Monday morning.

—NCDOT press release

Coast Guard names Barney Slough an official alternate ferry route to Ocracoke

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From Peter's camera 127
Ferries pass in the long route between Ocracoke and Hatteras. Photo by C. Leinbach.

By Connie Leinbach
The U.S. Coast Guard has officially made the Barney Slough—the longer, natural route between Hatteras and Ocracoke—an additional permanent waterway.

The formal announcement was made Aug. 25 at a press conference in the Graveyard of the Atlantic Museum, Hatteras.
This route has been the primary route since December after the Rollinson Channel—the short route between the islands—became unnavigable.
U.S. Coast Guard Captain Sean Murtagh, Coast Guard Sector North Carolina, stressed that the Coast Guard is not abandoning the short route because it is a federally-designated route and they must maintain it.
“Funding for shallow draft inlets has been a problem since 2005,” added Bob W. Keistler, navigational project manager with the Army Corps of Engineers (ACE).
Money to fund dredging from the Hatteras Ferry docks to the “gorge,” (which can move depending on the water) can only come from a Congressional appropriation, he said, and hiring the pipeline dredge would cost $1 to $2 million.
Jed Dixon, ferry division deputy director in Manns Harbor, discussed two charts of the inlet showing the heavy shoaling as well as the erosion of the end of Hatteras Island, which still is occurring.
If the inlet could be dredged and the “spoil” deposited at the end of Hatteras Island, it would help keep ocean water from flowing into the channel, noted Warren Judge, chairman of the Dare County Commissioners of which Hatteras is a part.
Judge acknowledged several local charter fishing captains in the audience, saying, “This is the road they use to go to work. We need to continue to work on the federal channel.”
Hatteras charter boats still use the short route through which they have found deep enough water and marked these spots with Clorox bottles.
With the short Rollinson Channel route the ferry division typically ran four ferries, said Ed Goodwin, ferry division chief, but with the longer route, they have been running six ferries, though each can only make five trips per 12-hour shift.
“It costs the ferry division $7,500 a day to run boats in the alternate channel,” he said.
While many islanders are thankful that at least this route is available, many others declined to talk on the record that they are upset with the loss of the short route.
Among the several Ocracoke business owners in the audience was Ernie Doshier, captain of the charter boat “The Gecko.”
“They didn’t really say anything at the meeting,” he noted afterwards. “But it’s imperative that the short route get opened up for us and Hatteras in a timely manner.”
Rudy Austin, Ocracoke Civic and Business Association president, said at the Aug. 13 meeting that last year, the short route began July 15 and business on Ocracoke picked up.
This year, some businesses are reporting about half of the customers than they usually see, Austin said.
Ridership numbers confirm this.
July ridership statistics provided by Tim Hass, ferry division spokesman, show that both cars and passengers on the Ocracoke-Hatteras route was down by 24 percent from last year with 37,572 vehicles and 112,204 passengers.
“(Having the long route) is really affecting our north-sound traffic,” Austin said.
It also affects the time islanders spend to go up the beach for doctor’s appointments and other errands as well as vendors supplying goods and services.
Heavy shoaling began in 2011 with Hurricane Irene and got worse with Super Storm Sandy in October 2012.
While the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers did some dredging with the pipeline dredge in early 2013, that work was incomplete and short lived.
During that time, the Coast Guard approved use of a natural channel which runs farther east in the Pamlico Sound. The long route takes about an hour and the short route has historically taken 40 minutes.  The state continues to do periodic dredging with the side caster, but that does not go into the federal channel.
While the Ferry Division is challenged to do something about the long wait visitors may have at the Hatteras docks, sometimes the wait keeps people on Ocracoke longer, noted Sean Death, manager of the Ocracoke Gas Station.
“I hear people say that they’ll just stay longer and go get something to eat,” he said. “Market the island for people to stay longer.”

From Peter's camera 117
This graphic shows the erosion of the south end of Hatteras Island with the blue line indicating where the island was more than 20 years ago.

 

From Peter's camera 118
This graphic from the NC Ferry Division shows the relative water depths in the Rollinson Channel (short route) and the Barney Slough, the natural channel in the Pamlico Sound that the ferries have been using since December.

For safety’s sake downed street signs must be restored

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En español

“When you enter the village from the Hatteras ferry, keep going till you get to Old Beach Road and take a right.  From there…”
This typical advice to a first-time visitor sounds perfectly normal. The only problem is that visitor will have trouble finding Old Beach Road. There is no street sign at this juncture nor at many others throughout the village.  Additionally, the one-way directional sign at Martha Jane Lane and Lighthouse Road is lying on the ground.  Hurricane Arthur was responsible for several downed signs, but not all.  The sign to enter Widgeon Woods from Loop Road, for example, has been missing for several years, as have several others.
Each hurricane or northeaster (including Hurricane Irene in 2011 and Super Storm Sandy in 2012) takes its toll on street signs, some of which have been twisted out of shape for a long time.

Perhaps surprising to some, street signs were first installed only back in 2005.  Prior to that, one had to be creative in describing how to get to a particular house, and that art, unfortunately, has returned. Although many islanders wanted brown or more historic-looking road signs, the N.C. Department of Transportation gave the county a “green sign with white lettering only, take-it-or-leave-it” proposition.
The lack of street signs is far more than an inconvenience: for fire and safety reasons, people need to easily identify their location in an emergency.   If just for this reason alone we feel this situation needs to be corrected immediately.
We can be proud of the fact that Ocracoke has no traffic lights, but street signs are a must.

One way Martha Jane lane 2014-08-10 10.58.40
A downed directional street sign gives wrong impression at Loop and Lighthouse roads. Photo by P. Vankevich

Ocracoke needs an official lost-and-found location

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Recent photo of Ocracoke’s U.S. Post Office bulletin board

En español

A set of found keys have been pinned to the post office bulletin board for several weeks now and another set has shown up.
Since the post office is one of the chief sources of communication the island, this isn’t the first time islanders have seen keys (or other found objects) pinned there with a scribbled note of where they were found.  Where else could these keys have been taken?
On Ocracoke we do not have one location where any found items of value can be brought.  Although the sheriff’s office does process lost wallets, the office is frequently closed while the deputies are out patrolling.
We propose that a lock box be installed at the sheriff’s office with a lost-and-found sheet attached. If the item found is small enough, it can be placed into the slot.Those who have found larger items as well as those who have lost something, can fill out a form and place either into the box. Notices about the box could be placed on bulletin boards around the island, included in visitor information and with the few island media sources.
Losing car keys these days is not only a major inconvenience but an expensive one as the new computer chip keys can cost more than $200.
Having an official lost-and-found location that can be accessible all the time would be a valuable service to Ocracoke and its many visitors.

Ocracats Spay-neuter clinic scheduled for Sept. 16 to 17

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 Ocracats logo

Ocracats, Inc. will have a spay-neuter clinic Sept. 16 and 17 for Ocracoke Island feral cats in the new Ocracoke Volunteer Fire Department building along Highway 12 with Dr. Howard Johnson, of Boone.

Thursday, Sept. 18, will be for surgery for island pets.

Trapping will begin Monday, Sept. 15, and will continue Sept. 16 and 17. So islanders are requested to keep their pets inside those days.
Islanders who have feral cats that need to be fixed should sign up on the flyer posted in the Post Office.   Ocracats also is looking for anyone who has feral kittens and/or pregnant cats.  Many visitors to the island request to adopt an Ocracoke cat and the group needs to know where the tame kittens are located.
That same week, on Wednesday, Sept. 17, Roanoke Island Animal Clinic will have their monthly clinic also in the new fire department building.
Ocracats also is looking for volunteer helpers the day of the clinics for various duties, such as, pre-surgery prep, recording information for rabies certificates, trapping cats, monitoring the “patients” after surgery and clean-up.  Those who want to help are asked to note  this on the sign-up sheets and include contact phone number.
Ocracats is an all-volunteer organization that relies on donations to pay for these spay-neuter clinics that help control the feral cat population. Donations and sales of T-shirts, calendars and note cards at Mermaid’s Folly also pay for food for the many colonies around the island and medications for the cats.
Ocracats is funded by donations, and from income they receive for the sale of t-shirts, note cards and calendars. With this, the group feeds several colonies of ferals at a cost of around $500 a month and pays all costs for spay/neuters of ferals and rescued cats. A large grant money for spay-neuter clinics over two years has been completed.
The group also keeps a small stock of medical supplies and budgets up to $100 for vet costs for sick cats.
The harsh reality is that Ocracoke does not have a vet.  A trip to the vet in Buxton is easily two hours each way; four hours to Manteo.
Ocracats volunteers are not trained in veterinary medicine and can do little more than offer some comfort and creative problem-solving when a crisis occurs.
Interested in volunteers should go to the Ocracats Facebook page and send a private message about helping.

New UMC pastor Richard Bryant and family arrive on island

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The Bryant family, from left, Richard, Mary, Mackenzie, Jordan and Caroline. Photo by P. Vankevich.

By Peter Vankevich

First impressions mean a lot.

With the arrival of the new pastor in July of the United Methodist Church, School, Road, Richard Bryant, that impression can be quite varied. It would depend on whether one attended his first service at the Ocracoke United Methodist Church, looked at his blog, “Richard’s Food for Thought,” (http://richardsfoodforthought.com), saw him recite his poetry at an August poetry reading decked out in a newsboy cap and madras pants, or had a chance to listen to him recently on Ocracoke’s community radio station WOVV.

Intertwined in the radio interview was a play list he brought  along that included spiritual  songs Grandma’s Hand by Bill Withers and  Softly and Tenderly by Garrison Keillor and the Hopeful Gospel Quartet. But wait, in the mix was Just a Friend, a rap piece by Biz Markie, Waiting for the Great Leap Forward by the Phil Ochs of the U.K., protest singer Billy Bragg, a French song by Joe Dassin and even Kalinka by the Red Army Chorus.

Bryant, ordained in 2007 and recently turned 40, grew up in North Carolina. He arrived this summer with his wife Mary and his three daughters Mackenzie, Caroline and Jordan, who all are enrolled in the Ocracoke School to replace Pastor Laura Stern, who relocated to Raleigh to become the Associate Pastor at Millbrook United Methodist Church in Raleigh.

He and his family spent the last two years in Northern Ireland in a village outside of the city of Londonderry and along the border of the Republic of Ireland where he ministered to two United Methodist churches in a predominantly Catholic enclave. Although life in Ireland is much better today than 20 years ago, there are still signs of the conflict that have not entirely gone away. “There are lots of things that are just below the surface that could erupt again,” he said. “Pipe bombs and armed caches are still being found there that don’t make the press.” In Northern Ireland, the police, unlike the Bobbies in England, are heavily armed, he said.

“When your children get used to seeing men with machine guns walking down the street we thought maybe it was time to come home,” he said.Part of his ministry there focused on reconciliation, including inviting Protestants and Catholics to share meals together.

“We had a wonderful time in Ireland and made many friends there, but it was a different environment as you can imagine with different challenges placed upon us in ministry,” he continued. “It is nice to come here where it is so peaceful and tranquil.” He writes on his blog about doing church activities in a smarter, simpler way that goes beyond the clichés of contemporary, emergent, evangelical, high-church, low-church, progressive, conservative and other labels.

“I am about Methodist practice, Quaker ethics, and Mennonite living,” he says about his methods.  “I am about making church as easy to use and as important to people as an iPhone 5.”

Bryant is a prolific poet, much of which can be seen on his blog. His themes are as eclectic as the musical play list he brought into the radio station, covering spirituality, reflectiveness, daily life and humor as evident in The Wal-Mart Blues poem he read at the poetry night.

Well-rounded in education, he holds degrees in history, Russian studies and theology from the University of North Carolina at Greensboro and Duke University. He also undertook additional post-graduate work in post-Soviet Studies at the University of Leeds.Over his career, he spent two years in Russia, worked for a summer on an archaeological dig in Israel and a shortened Peace Corps stint in French-speaking Africa (Togo).

A person attending his weekly 6:30 a.m. Bible study group at the church rec hall will observe that in addition to providing detailed observations on the New Testament, Bryant can expound on the Koran and the history of Islam sharing insights on the current state of radical Islam that is gripping much of the world these days.

Bryant says he is looking forward to meeting all of his Ocracoke neighbors.So, the next time you see a guy wearing long madras pants on the island, feel free to introduce yourself.The odds are high that it will the new UMC pastor.

Sunday services are at 11 a.m. and rebroadcast at 5 p.m. Sundays on WOVV (90.1 FM on the island and online at wovv.org).

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Richard Bryant reads his The Wal-Mart Blues at an August poetry reading event at Books To Be Red.